Wrapping up the Market Adventure

It is so good to be home after 3 weeks in cold Central Europe. Of course, it wasn’t exactly toasty here either. It was only 29 degrees when I woke up on Wednesday but it warmed up during the day.

The flight home was uneventful. We left Amsterdam on time but an interesting side note. Remember that I had bought my train ticket to Amsterdam for Tuesday instead of Monday. Well, if I would have had to travel on Tuesday, there was a good chance that I would have missed my flight as the 8:30am Antwerp-Amsterdam train had mechanical difficulties and didn’t arrive to Schiphol until 1040, which would have only given me 30 minutes to get checked in, get through security and onto the plane before they closed the doors. Thank God for the kind train operator who allowed me to get on the train even though my ticket was for the wrong day.

After only about 90 minutes on the ground in Heathrow, I boarded my LHR-PHX flight on time.

Back in my cocoon. Yes, it’s the same sweater I wore on the way to London. I only had 3 to pick from and the other 2 were dirty.

We were wheels up at 3:30pm and chased the sunset almost all the way home. It was very pretty.

The white fluffy clouds were beautiful.

The first course for dinner was a delicious roasted pepper tomato soup.

I’m not usually wild about red peppers but this was very good.

The sun kept getting lower but didn’t disappear until about 90 minutes before we landed.

Almost looks like 3 suns.

Main dinner course was a Christmas Dinner with all the trimmings,

Turkey (was a little dry; needed more gravy) dressing, potatoes and veggies. The veggies were brussels sprouts, carrots, and parsnips. Yeah… I don’t think so.

This was as dark as it got as we flew over Canada.

Looked like the sun was going to finally set, but nope. It was another couple of hours when we were over New Mexico when it finally got dark.

We had a final meal of chicken.

Wasn’t too bad but the food was better on my outbound from from PHX to LHR.

I watched 4 movies one of which was Back to Black; Amy Winehouse was really a hot mess! I napped a little, ate a lot and counted the hours until I touched down at PHX.

As you know I love to travel and explore new places, but it’s always good to get home. My next adventure is in late May when I head to Sweden to visit family. I’ll be gone for 2 1/2 months, checking the rest of Europe off my to-do list (Finland, the Baltics, Poland, the Balkans and finishing with a Greek cruise out of Athens). Of course, that entire trip depends on our esteemed world leaders not started WWIII before then.

As always, thank you so much for traveling with me. I had a great time but it’s good to be home. Happy holidays everyone.

Love,

Lynn

Through the Kindness of Strangers – Again

Some people focus on the bad, assume the worse and are afraid of anyone who is different. I prefer to think people are good, kind and will do anything they can to help, regardless of who they are or where they’re from. I had evidence of that again today when I had a near travel disaster.

Long story short, I purchased a train ticket from Antwerp to Amsterdam for the wrong date (there’s a first time for everything). I didn’t realize it until I tried to get on the train and the agent stopped me and said that my ticket was for tomorrow (Tuesday). My response was a horrified, “What???” While the morning train would have gotten me to the airport in time for my 1140 flight to London, I would have been a nervous wreck for the next 24 hours.

I told her I had to get to Amsterdam today and asked about my options. She just smiled and said, “get on; I’ll figure it out.” I got on the packed train and waited for her in the cafe car. I figured I would have to stand for the one-hour train ride but at least I was on the train and that was all that mattered.

About 20 minutes later, she had taken my information, said she’d call headquarters to transfer my ticket and found me a seat. The only place to put my rollaboard was on the top rack, which I couldn’t reach, so yet another kind stranger helped me with that. I must have looked incredibly stressed because when I finally got settled, all 3 of my seatmates smiled at me and one of them said, “it’s okay now; you’ll get there.” He chit chatted a little to help me relax and the rest of the trip was totally uneventful.

I got to my hotel and was able to check in early (it was only 1045) and Sara was very helpful. In fact, she went out of her way to ensure I was comfortable and had what I needed for the day, Actually, she was so busy telling me how to get into Amsterdam Central, where to get a mani/pedi and how to find the market that she forgot to finish my check in. As a result, about 20 minutes after I got to my room, someone else used a key to get in. It was a minor mix up that got straightened out very quickly. It also got me a free Bailey’s in the evening, so it turned out okay.

I’ve traveled all over the world and while people may not speak the same language or have the same customs, they all want the same thing – a happy, safe and healthy life for themselves and their families. There are the few who want to hurt and hate, but most people will bend over backwards to help if they can.

Enough of that. The bottom line is I made it to Amsterdam but before I tell you about the rest of my day, here’s a final pic of Antwerp. This was last night on my way to the concert.

Antwerp Central Train Station. Like many train stations in Europe, this building was very old and very beautiful.

Here’s Amsterdam Central Station, another beautiful building.

The inside is much plainer than the station in Antwerp, but the outside is stunning.

Actually, there’s not much to tell you about today. I got the train from the hotel to Central Station, where I got on a tram to the nail salon. The foot massage felt so good, I almost cried. I’ve put a lot of steps on these poor feet over the last 3 weeks so a pedi is just what I needed.

After the salon, it was back on the tram. I got off one stop early to have lunch at Dutch Masters Pancake restaurant.

On the way to the restaurant, I passed a decorated tree in a small square.

I was freezing cold (mid 30s with a 20MPH wind; crazy cold) so I started with a hot chocolate.

The little cookie is actually a Stoopwaffle. It’s a very soft waffle with syrup inside. I know it sounds awful, but I bought a pack to bring home; they are delicious.
If I get hungry on the plane, I can have one of these for a snack.

Then I had a delicious Dutch ham and cheese pancake.

After lunch it was back to the station to catch the train home.

A little holiday cheer in the station.

I’m settled in for the night and looking forward to going home tomorrow. I had a wonderful time, but it’s always nice to go home.

Out of all the markets, the one at the Vienna Town Hall Square was my favorite. It was so much more than booths of “stuff” and food. The others were nice, and I enjoyed them, but Vienna was special.

One of the many beautifully decorated trees at the Town Hall Square market in Vienna.

As of tomorrow, I will have been gone 21 days. So much has happened over the last 3 weeks, it seems like an eternity since I arrived in Budapest. I’m very glad I made the trip as I’ve been wanting to visit Christmas markets for a long time. As others have told me, though, after a while they all start to look alike. That is very true, so I think I’ve enough for a few years. If I decide to visit them again, I’ll go to France and Germany.

Of course, the highlight was this past weekend. Meeting Dana and attending her concert was beyond special. I’ll never forget it. Just in case you didn’t have enough of that last night, here are a couple more videos.

This one is of her backup singers and their version of Hallelujah by Leonard Cohen.

Here’s one more of Dana. The song is familiar as it’s one of Peter’s downloaded songs, but I don’t know the name of it.

As always, thanks for traveling with me. I’ll report in tomorrow or Wednesday morning to let you know about trip home.

With love and gratitude.

A Very Special Weekend

The main reason I’m in Europe happened this weekend. Almost exactly one year ago, I bought a ticket to see Dana Winners in concert here in Antwerp. Who is Dana Winner you ask? Well, if you traveled with me and Peter on our Epic European Adventure in 2022, you may remember that she is a Belgian pop singer and Peter was absolutely her biggest fan. He was a member of her fan club, was friends with her on Facebook and listened to her music constantly. The concert in Oct 2022 was one of the highlights of the trip. I’ve included a link to that blog page in case you either want to refresh your memory as to what happened or have no idea what I’m talking about and want to catch up. The Most Amazing Evening EVER!

Last December I received an email stating that she is having a 35th anniversary concert this weekend and I knew I had to be here. If Peter had been well, I would have given him concert tickets for Christmas last year. But since he is gone, I knew I had to attend the concert for him. Because I didn’t want to come all the way to Belgium for a concert, I decided to catch some of the famous Christmas markets as well, which is what took me to Budapest, Bratislava, Vienna, Prague, Brussels and Bruges. But without the concert, I wouldn’t be here at all.

Last July, I saw that she was having a meet and greet for her international fans. International meaning anyone from outside the Benelux countries (Belgium and the Netherlands). Since Arizona is very far out of the Benelux region, I signed up for the event and it was held yesterday (Saturday) afternoon.

After a delicious lunch of real Italian pizza…

As good as it gets outside of Italy.

… I hopped on a bus to the Mercure Hotel about 25 minutes away, where I joined about 17 other fans in a small meeting room.

With a glass of sparkling wine waiting for her to arrive.

The main reason I wanted to meet her was to give her my thanks for all the joy she brought to Peter, especially in those last few months of his life when all he could do was watch TV and listen to music. He watched her YouTube videos constantly and listened to her music on his computer.

During the meet/greet I spoke with her a couple of times and during the 2nd conversation, I showed her the photo of me and Peter at the 2022 concert. It was as if a lightbulb went off in her head and she remembered what happened. In case you didn’t look at the original post, at one point during the show, she said, “I understand there are people from Arizona here tonight. Where are you?” That was us. The joy on Peter’s face when she acknowledged us was indescribable.

This is the picture taken that night that jogged her memory.

When I showed her this photo, her face brightened and she said, “I do remember you. You put a card in with the flowers.” And we did, which is how she knew we were from Arizona. She said she “got shivers” when she recognized us.

She did a selfie and she’s much better at it than I am.

During our 2nd conversation, her assistant took these.

At one point I got a little teary, as I was wishing Peter was with me to meet her; he would have been thrilled. She understood and she gave me a big hug and told me they were “happy tears”.

When she found out I was traveling alone, she became concerned that I was going to be able to get to and from the concert safely. She even tried to connect me with some of the other U.S. fans. She really is the nicest, most genuine person. You can tell she really loves her fans and is very grateful for their loyalty. I thanked her again for her beautiful music and congratulated her on 35 years of doing what she loved.

The event lasted just over an hour and it was an incredible experience. I was a little concerned that there would be so many people all we’d get was a handshake and a smile. But with only 18 people, everyone got to spend as much time with her as they wanted. Luckily, no one took advantage and monopolized her time.

Then it was back to the hotel with my new Aussie friends. Debbie and Calvin are staying at the same hotel so we shared a cab.

The train station is directly across the street from the hotel. As you can see, it was still raining.

Today (Sunday) was a quiet day. The forecasted rain didn’t happen but it was still cloudy, damp and chilly so I put the “Do Not Disturb” sign on my door and hung out in my room all morning.

I went out a little after noon and headed to the Christmas market. I had seen it in the square on Saturday but didn’t get a chance to wander around as I was in a hurry to get to lunch and the meet/greet.

One of the many squares in the pedestrian area. This was taken on Saturday so you can see all the umbrellas up against the rain. I don’t have an umbrella so I just used my hood. It wasn’t raining too badly so I did okay.

I found this high on a building.

Several buildings had this type of ornamentation.
Another corner with another pretty building. It’s what I love about Europe.

Just like in the other places, there were smaller markets scattered around the city. In one of them, I finally found a brat that didn’t have 1/2 pounds of bread in the bun. It was good and worth the wait.

Cooking the brats, hot dogs and burgers on an open fire.

I skipped the onions.

I only ate about 1/4 of the bun; it was just too much bread.

I found an ice skating rink.

And some very ugly sweaters.

Ugly sweater contest anyone?

The larger market was in the Grote Market or main square. Antwerp is not known for its Christmas markets and it is small but nice. Of course, they had the giant tree.

It’s probably very pretty lit up but I won’t get back here after dark.

Grote Market with the Cathedral in the background.

The Cathedral is just a few blocks away. There was another small market there as well.
Grote Market looking towards the town hall.

It was getting chilly so I stopped for some hot chocolate.

This is my first one since Bratislava when all I got was a cup of melted chocolate. This was better.

I went home a different route and stumbled into a church that was built between 1615-1611. It originally had ceiling tiles by Peter Paul Reuben (native son of Antwerp) but they were destroyed by a fire when the building was struck by lightening in 1718.

St. Charles Borromeo church.

I only took a peak inside.

The rest of the church was fairly plain but the altar was gorgeous.

Here is today’s sweet treat photo.

Haven’t had any but they look delicious.

And, of course, I couldn’t get out of Antwerp without trying on a piece of jewelry.

This has a 2.55 carat emerald and 0.85 carats of diamonds. It was gorgeous and not ridiculously expensive ($2900; would probably appraise for 2-3 times that in U.S.) but I resisted the temptation. It sure looked nice on my hand, though.

Then it was back to the hotel for a few hours before heading out to the Lotto Center for the concert. It’s only about 4 metro stops from here and I’m meeting my Aussie friends there.

Talk again when it’s over.

Well, I’m back at the hotel and it’s now just after midnight on Monday. As expected the concert was amazing! She not only has an amazing voice but she puts on a wonderful show. This one was “smaller” than the last one which had a cast of about 100, a full orchestra and several big name guest artists. Tonight it was her and her band, back up singers and one guest artist. But it was no less entertaining than the one we attended in 2022.

I met Debbie and Calvin at the Arena. They were seated only 4 rows in front of me.

They’re from Sydney, Australia. Just like me, they added 3 weeks of travel to their concert but the main reason they came was to see Dana.

Just like in 2022, something amazing happened tonight. As I was trying to take a selfie, a man offered to take a photo for me.

At the Lotto Arena, Antwerp 2024

Then he asked me where I was from and I said the U.S. His reply was, “I thought so. You’re from Arizona aren’t you?” Well, I almost fell over. Turns out that he and his wife were at the concert in 2022 and remembered me from when Dana called us out from the stage. Can you believe that?

Oh, but wait, there’s more. The woman sitting in front of us heard our conversation and told me that she and her husband were sitting next to us at that concert. Seriously?!?

Monique and her husband are from the Netherlands. She and I are now WhatsApp buddies. What did we do before WhatsApp?

Of course, they both asked where Peter was and once I explained what happened, they were very glad I came to the concert for him.

Once Dana came onstage, it was magic just like the last time. She sang for over 2 hours but this time with only 2 very short breaks as there were no guest artists. Of course, all her conversation was in Dutch but she sang more songs in English this time. But even when I couldn’t understand a word she was singing, it was still beautiful. As I said before, music transcends language barriers.

I took about 20 videos. Don’t worry, I’ll only post a few of my favorites.

This was one of the first songs she did. It’s a medley of some of her Dutch hits.

She did several gospel numbers.

Ed Sheeran’s Song: Perfect Symphony. I don’t think I’ve heard all the lyrics in English as I usually listen to Ed’s duet with Andrea Bocelli so most of it is in Italian. It’s a very pretty song.

Barcelona was originally done by Freddie Mercury and Montserrat Caballe. I didn’t hear the name of the woman Dana sang with. I couldn’t get a video of the guest artist as she was standing directly in line with a spotlight and any time I put the camera on her, the screen whited out.

Sounds of Silence with her guitarist.

This is Winner Takes it All from her Abba Medley. At about the 9 second mark she looked right at me and gave me a big smile. I was sitting in the 3rd chair from the catwalk so she had a clear view. This one is long… sorry.

And, of course, her signature song One Moment in Time.

I’m so glad I had the opportunity to hear her sing again. It was even more special after meeting her on Saturday. It was an emotional weekend, missing Peter because I know he would have been so happy to be here. But I’m sure he was watching and smiling down on me.

Ok, so now it’s 1:45am and I have a 8:30am train to Amsterdam. I’m not sure what I was thinking going out so early but there it is. Hopefully, I can relax enough to fall asleep.

Good night everyone.

Back in Bruges

Bruges is less than an hour by train from Brussels. I got to my B&B (which is not on the town square but only a 15-minute walk) about 1030 but my room was ready.

You can see the pitched ceiling.

It’s a lovely room on the top floor of a 3 story canal house. To say the stairs are steep is an understatement. They’re not quite as vertical as a ladder, but not far off.

This is just the last flight; there are 2 more just like them. The stairwell is less than feet wide and the stair treads are more narrow than I’m used to.

Someone helped me with my bags. I only have a relatively light rollaboard and my backpack, but I’m lucky I can get myself up the stairs so the help was very much appreciated.

The view from the room is nice. This is a quiet residential street not far from the canal.

View from the window.

Since I had nothing special to do in town, I rested in the room until about 1pm when a miracle occurred…. the SUN CAME OUT!! It was still chilly but everything is so much better when the sun is shining. It didn’t last too long and by 3pm the clouds had rolled back in but a couple hours is better than nothing.

I just love the style of these buildings. They are a very classic Dutch design.

Burg Square is one of the oldest parts of the city.

Burg Square with City Hall in the background.

The other side of the square is the Basilica of the Holy Blood.

This church contains a vial of Holy Blood shed by Jesus on the cross. Some historians doubt the veracity of that claim, but it an important part of religious life in Bruges. I saw this in 2022, so I didn’t go into the church today.

By this time is was about 2pm and I hadn’t eaten lunch yet, so I found a restaurant on the square and stopped in for a bite.

After the heavy food last night I settled for onion soup and frites. The soup was hot and delicious. The frites would have been better with ketchup but I know better than to ask for any. They did serve them with mayo but who does that to fries? That is wrong on so many levels!!

After lunch I walked just a couple of blocks to the largest church in Bruges, St. Salvator’s Cathedral. Since I hadn’t visited this church in my other two trips to Bruges, I popped in for a few minutes. Besides, it’s been 3 whole days since I’ve been in a church, so why not?

St. Salvator’s Cathedral

St. Salvator’s started in the 10th century as a parish church. After a fire destroyed the church, construction on the current building began in 1127 and continued for a hundred years.

Some of the old frescos are still visible.
Main altar.
Altar piece from a side altar.
This was gorgeous.
The organ looked modern but it is is from the early 18th century.

On my way back to the central market, I found some interesting buildings and shop windows.

You can see the date this was built…1669. It’s the oldest one I saw.
Still haven’t had any macarons. Can’t stop eating the chocolate.
These were all for sale. Not sure how I’d get them home so I took a picture and kept walking.
This one was all about the bears.
I saw these the other night in Brussels. They are filled with different flavored mousse. I had the one with Amaretto and it was to die for delicious.
This is one of the newer buildings built in 1732.

And because I hadn’t yet had enough sweets today, I stopped for a Belgian Waffle.

This one had chocolate, strawberries and cream, and yes, it was as good as it looks.

I passed a smaller market that had a little entertainment.

By the time I got to the main square market, it was finally getting to be dusk so the lights were starting to come on.

This is the other side of the square.

There were quite a few decorated trees.

The booths were a lot of the same things but I thought these were cute.

These are incense burners. The smoke comes out of the chimney… pretty cute.

I really didn’t hang around too long as it was getting pretty dark, the relatively small square was getting very crowded, and I had over 15 minutes to walk home in the dark. In spite of only being out a few hours, I still had over 12,000 steps. I need 3 times more than that to walk off all the chocolate but I guess it’s a start.

I’m only here one night before heading to Antwerp tomorrow. I’ve got a very exciting weekend and Antwerp is the reason I came to Europe. The markets were just a bonus. But I’ll save that story for tomorrow. Night everyone.

Brussels Christmas Markets

I saw the sun!! It was Wednesday morning in the car on the way to the Prague Airport. Then I got on a plane, landed in Brussels to a cloudy, gloomy day. Oh well, it was nice while it lasted.

Last look at Prague with the sun shining. Took this from the taxi window.

The flight was uneventful (1:20 minutes gate to gate), the walk through the Brussels airport long (it’s gigantic) and the ride from the airport to the flat expensive ($75; traffic was horrible). I arrived at the flat too early to get the key so I found a restaurant down the block for lunch.

This was my first pasta since I got to Europe. The penne with chicken and mushrooms was very tasty. The drink is called Peachy Cheeks; sweet and delicious.

I was finally settled into the flat around 3pm. I did a load of laundry then headed out to find the markets. My first stop was the Grand Place, the town square. Some say it’s the prettiest square in all of Europe. It’s big and it is beautiful, but it doesn’t have a Christmas market. Nope, not a single stall. It did, though, have a beautiful Christmas tree and a light show on the buildings.

It was dusk, not full dark, so the lights don’t show up as well as they would in about 30 minutes.
The large nativity scene was beautiful.
The buildings kept changing colors.
The tree in the middle of the Grand Place was huge.

Since there were no market stalls, I did a google search and found a market only about 10 minutes away, so off I went. I think Brussels is like Vienna; the markets are scattered all over the city. I passed a few along the way.

This small market had a nice carousel.
This one was in the square in front of a church which was lit blue for the occasion.

Eventually I found the one I was looking for, Place Sainte-Catherine, which is where most of the chalets are located. So, just by accident I found the biggest of the markets.

It’s about 3 blocks long with a giant Ferris wheel at the other end.

It was about a 50/50 split food/drink to stuff to buy booths. A lot of the booths were similar to markets I’ve already seen – woolen goods, jewelry, wooden goods and candles.

When I get back to the Ranch I’m going to learn how to make bowls. I wonder if I could make stuff like this….very pretty.
These candle holders were made out of glass. While pretty, there’s no way I get them home without breaking them.

I found some new stuff as well.

The growing upside down plants were small and adorable but I don’t think I’d be able to get them back into the U.S. due to agriculture rules.
This is the first time I’ve seen Christmas stockings.

There were more giant sausages but also French cuisine.

Oysters anyone?
I bought the half quiche in the front of the display case; goat cheese and tomato. I thought it would be good for breakfast and/or evening snack. Turns out I don’t have a microwave and I can’t figure out how to turn on the oven. So, not to be defeated, I heated up a piece in a pan on the stove over a low heat. It took about 20 minutes (couldn’t use higher heat because I didn’t want to burn the bottom) but it finally warmed through. It wasn’t super hot but it wasn’t cold either.

There were several crepe booths.

This one was filled with Nutella.
I had one filled with apple compote. It was very good.

Of course there was lots of other sweets.

I may have to try one of these giant chocolates; they were the size of small candles. I wonder if they’re filled with something or are solid chocolate? I’m guessing filled.
The Belgium waffles were decorated for the holidays.
This large booth was filled with chocolate and other types of candy. It was also beautifully decorated with polar bears and snowmen. It looked like a winter wonderland.
I’m not sure I’ve ever seen so many varieties of candy in one spot. It was a gorgeous booth.
The candy booth from a distance.
I’m about half way down the row of stalls.
I made it to the end.

The market was less than 10 minutes from the flat so I was home in no time.

That was Wednesday. The forecast on Thursday was rainy most of the day so I spent the morning snug in my flat. I did another load of laundry (no I didn’t have that many dirty clothes but the washers here are very small), read a book, ate more quiche and started watching a couple of Christmas movies on Netflix. I didn’t get more than 10 minutes into either one of them so I found stuff to watch on YouTube.

About 4pm the rain had turned into a light mist so off I went to find more markets. There was another one less than 10 minutes in the opposite direction of yesterday but there wasn’t too much there.

This looked like a kiddie ride. Very cute.

They also had a tent for curling and ice skating.

Then I went on the hunt for sit down restaurant for dinner. There was plenty of street food but I had a taste for a bigger meal. Besides, I wanted to get out of the chilly rain. I found a place not too far from the Grand Place. It served mostly seafood but also had steak. I haven’t had steak in forever so I splurged.

Chateaubriand with sauce and frites. (Do NOT call them French Fries; the Belgians are very twitchy about that as they claim to have invented fries.) I only ate about half the frites because I didn’t want to leave any of the steak. It was delicious.

The drink is a limoncello spritz. Delicious but with way more alcohol than I’m used to. Limoncello is 30% alcohol so even with spritz (whatever that is), it’s still a lot of alcohol. I took about 45 minutes to drink it.

Then I walked back to the Grand Place. On the way I passed a few interesting displays.

I don’t know for sure what these are but they look like the Turkish Delight I bought in Istanbul.

I found an entire store dedicated to frites.

I told you they’re serious about their frites. Those are bags of potatoes outside the window.

Today it was dark when I got to the Grand Place, and, I was just in time for the light show.

Then it was back home to relax for the evening. Even though I didn’t go out until 4pm, I still managed to get over 7,000 steps. Not bad.

I didn’t get a Belgian waffle this time but I picked this up on the way home. A lemon tart that looks delicious. I’m so full from dinner I’m not sure I’ll eat it tonight. Hopefully it can survive the ride to Bruges in my bag.

I think that’s meringue on the top.

Tomorrow I’m back on the train for the 1-hour to Bruges. I’m only there for one night but I think my B&B is right on the square, which is where the market is located. Hopefully, the weather will clear up.

Strahov Monastery

Good news: It was marginally warmer today; 33 instead of 28. Bad news: it rained all morning. Not a downpour. Just a drizzle, but enough to get wet. So, I decided to pull out my folding cane because now the treacherous, uneven cobblestones were also wet and slippery. The cane wouldn’t keep me from falling if I rolled my ankle, but I thought it might keep me a little steadier. It did… no stumbles!!

First thing this morning I walked to the Old Town Square to pick up the hop on hop off bus. About 15 minutes later I was at the Strahov Monastery which is an abbey founded in 1143. The order was founded by Norbert of Xanten who later became Archbishop. He was made a saint in 1582 and his statue is one of the many on the piazza colonnade of St. Peter’s Square in Rome.

Strahov Monastery.

The tour started in the Library, which was smaller than the one in Vienna, but still very beautiful.

This entrance makes the building look deceptively small. Once inside and up two flights of stairs, it goes on forever.
Strahov Library. The only access to the library itself was with a guided tour so I only got a look from the doorway.
The other side of the library. The ceiling is magnificent.

The hallway in front of the library had some cool stuff.

Another very old globe.
These books are from the late 1800s.
This is from 1506 and is the earliest Czech print on the discovery of America. Pretty cool.

Then it was off to the Strahov Art Gallery which had some really old stuff as well.

This Madonna and Child is from the early 14th century. Except for the infant missing his arm, it’s in amazing shape.
Saint Barbara and Saint Mary Magdalene from the 1470s.
Crucified Christ from Jihlava; Done in northern Italy from the early 14th century.

The Abbey is still used by the Norbertine Brothers who live life according to the rule of St. Augustine as shown by their founder, St. Norbert. The building was a square surrounding a courtyard.

Looking to the front of the abbey.
St. Francis of Assisi.
Contains the relics of St. Norbert.
Didn’t see a sign for this but thought it was pretty.
Dining Room
Don’t remember what this is but it could have been a small chapel.

The last place to see was the Monastery Basilica but just like the library, I only saw it from outside a giant grate.

Main Altar

I headed out of the monastery back to the hop on hop off bus. As I got to the street the bus was there. I waved my arms (including the cane), the driver looked right at me and DROVE AWAY! I was not happy, especially when the schedule said the bus was in 30 minutes. So, it was back in a cab to the pier where I caught a 45-minute ride down the River Vltava.

We were about 10 minutes from the dock when a miracle occurred… the sun came out!! Not all the way out but enough so there was a glimmer of yellow in the sky.

I was going to put on my sunglasses just so I could say I did, but before I got them out of my bag, the sun was gone again.
The Charles Bridge from the river. This is looking towards the Lesser Town quarter. The dome in the background is St. Nicholas Church Lesser Town.
It looks sunnier than it actually was.
Not sure I’d want to ride in this tiny boat.
This was our boat. The blue sky didn’t last another 20 minutes.

After the cruise I hopped back on the bus for one stop and walked towards home from the Old Town Square. I stopped at the Irish Pub again for lunch.

It is such a cute place and very busy. It was either sit at the bar or climb to the 2nd floor. I sat at the bar.

Today there was entertainment. This is a short video as this was all I could get without a server walking in front of me.

I went full-on American with my cheeseburger and fries. It was delicious.

With a bit of Stella Artois.

That was my day…. only 5600 steps. I was going to go back out this evening to check out the Wenceslaus Square Christmas market but decided against it. The square is a 20-minute walk from the hotel in the opposite direction I usually walk, so it’s unfamiliar territory. I was at the main market 3 times and didn’t think there’d be that much different at this one so, I decided to rest at home.

Today pretty much ends my sightseeing. I fly to Brussels in the morning (Wednesday), then head to Bruges, Antwerp and Amsterdam. I’ve been to all of them at least twice (4 times each Brussels and Amsterdam) so I’ve seen all the sights I’m interested in seeing. I’m going just for the Christmas Markets. I hear Brussels and Bruges are two of the best in Europe, so I’m excited to check them out. Since tomorrow is a travel day, don’t be surprised or worried if you don’t hear from me. I may take it as a blog-free day.

Have a great night everyone.

Cold, Damp Day 2 in Prague

I don’t think I even remember what the sun looks like. I’ve only seen it once in almost 2 weeks. I do remember, though, why I left Chicago. This damp, cold weather is bone chilling.

Anyway, before I get to today, here’s a wrap up of yesterday. I went to the Old Town Square to check out the market. This one is about 50/50 food and handicrafts. Here are some of the many pics I took.

Church of our Lady Before Tyn in the background.
Overlooking the market from the steps of St. Nicholas Church
The nativity scene was beautiful.
The glass ornaments were hand painted.
They cook their chimney cakes (Trdelnik in Czech) over an open flame. They serve them here filled with ice cream. I would love to try it but given that it’s only in the upper 20s/low 30s, common sense tells me know to eat ice cream.
I don’t know what it’s called but it was fried cheese on rye bread with jam. Maybe not a healthy dinner but it was tasty and messy.

Some yummy treats I didn’t try.

These suckers are pure sugar..
Filled pastry. I have no idea what they’re filled with.

A local group entertained the crowd.

Then I headed to St. Nicholas Church for the concert.

Looking at the side of the church from the doorway while waiting to get in for the concert.
The main altar.

So, that finishes last night. Today (Monday) started with a walk across the Charles Bridge, just about a block from my hotel. It is a medieval stone bridge across the Vltava River. Construction began in 1357 and finished in the early 15th century.

The bridge is lined with statues.

When I was here in 1993, I remember the bridge being also lined with people hawking their wares. Today I only saw 2 or 3 people setting up sales tables on the bridge.

Looking at the tower on my side of the bridge. There’s another tower on the other side.
One of the statues.
View from the bridge to the east side (my side) of the river.

Once on the other side, my first stop was the Church of Our Lady Victorious, home to the famed statue, Infant Jesus of Prague. It is a 16th century wax covered, wooden statue of the child Jesus and is a major pilgrimage site.

Church of Our Lady Victorious
Shrine of child Jesus.
Close up of the statue.

Then it was on to the 2nd of 3 churches I visited today, St. Nicholas. This one is different than the St. Nicholas I went to Sunday night. This one is in the baroque style, which means it is very ornately decorated.

St. Nicholas in the distance.
Tope of one of the side altars.
Every inch of the ceilings were covered in art.
The organ wasn’t as elaborate as some, but the organ loft was gorgeous.

This is when I had trouble with Hop on Hop off. I misread the map and was on the wrong side of the church so when the bus didn’t come, I hoofed it back across the Charles Bridge. I stopped at the hotel for a quick refresh and went back to Old Town Square where I know there was a bus stop. Once on the bus, I took it up the hill to Prague Castle, which was built in the 9th century. There are actually several different castles in the giant complex. Since I didn’t know one from the other, I went on the “Classic Tour”, which was a self-guided tour through 4 of the buildings. First was the Cathedral of St. Vitus.

Cathedral of St. Vitus.

The cathedral is considered to be a dominant place of worship in the Czech Republic. The main patron saint of the country, Saint Wenceslas, is buried there.

Tomb of St. Wenceslas.
Tomb of St. John of Nepomuk, a protector from floods and drownings.

I also saw Golden Lane created at the end of the 15th century. This picturesque alley, with its small, colorful houses, is steeped in legends and myths that have also attracted numerous writers and artists, including the renowned Franz Kafka, who once resided here. 

Golden Lane. This is where I started to fear for the safety of my unstable right ankle and pulled out my cane. The stones were treacherous to walk on.

Also part of the tour was the…

Old Royal Palace
Vladislav Hall from the 16th century. It was used primarily for ceremonial purposes.

I enjoyed the tour but it was very windy which made a cold day even colder. And, just in case I wasn’t cold enough, it started to rain. Just a little but enough to feel chilled.

View of Prague from the castle.

By the time I found my way out of the complex (it’s gigantic and I walked in circles for a while), I was freezing cold, wet and very tired. I could have gone back to the hop on hop off, but when I saw a taxi just sitting there, I decided it was fate and I grabbed the ride.

I rested at home about an hour before heading out for an early dinner at the Irish Pub around the corner. The food was good and the atmosphere wonderful.

Fish & chips and Sex on the Beach. I had a taste for something that wasn’t beer.
It was a busy place even at 4:00pm.

I have one more day in Prague. Tomorrow I might get back on the hop on hop off and head to the monastery, on the hill, not far from the castle. The bus ticket also gets me a river cruise but the jury is still out as to whether I want to go on the water in the cold. The boat is enclosed but still…maybe not.

Welcome to Prague

This post will be short as I spent 4 uneventful hours on the train. The Central Station in Prague is gigantic and I was wandering around trying to find an ATM (they use Czech Koruna) I stumbled into an old section of the station. I’ve noticed that in many European cities, the train stations are works of art. This one isn’t quite that fancy but it’s still pretty.

One section of Central Station in Prague.

I arrived at the Charles Bridge Palace Hotel too early to check in, but they took my bags and off I went to lunch.

Pretty little restaurant just a few blocks from the hotel.
I tried venison goulash. I thought it might be gamey, but it was delicious. The bread dumplings were quite tasty as well.

Prague is known for two things…. bohemian crystal and garnets, so of course, I had to help the local economy just a little. I bought a set of 6 colored, hand cut crystal glasses perfect for aperitif, sherry, etc. Sorry but I didn’t think to get a picture of them before he wrapped them up but if I pass the store again tomorrow, I’ll grab a pic of them.

And, since garnet is my birthstone (January) I picked up a pretty ring.

There are 6 garnets, and the band has bohemian crystals to increase the sparkle factor.

Neither of my purchases were very expensive and every shop is having a Black Friday sale, so they were even more reasonably priced. Europe may not have had Thanksgiving last week, but they certainly have the Black Friday sales this weekend. I noticed that 2 years ago when we were in Athens for Thanksgiving.

With shopping out of the way, it was time to start the sightseeing, and the first stop was the Old Town Square. This is also where the main Christmas Market is located. I didn’t really explore the market yet, but from the little I saw, I think it’s the same as Budapest and Bratislava with mostly food/drink booths. I’m heading back out tonight to attend a concert at a church on the square, so I’ll check it out then.

The church in the background is Our Lady Before Tyn.

Prague Orloj is a medieval astronomical clock on the wall of the Old Town Hall. The clock was first installed in 1410, making it the third-oldest astronomical clock in the world and the oldest one still in operation. It probably does something on the hour, but I didn’t see that today. Hopefully I can catch it doing its thing before I leave.

Prague Orloj

The square is surrounded by beautifully painted buildings.

Not sure what this building is but it’s beautiful.

I thought these were pretty as well.

I love the different colors.

It is crazy cold here…. upper 20s/low 30s, so before heading back to the hotel I stopped for some hot chocolate and a little dessert. The seating was outdoors but they have heaters and blankets, so it wasn’t too bad.

Honey cake with cream. It was good but, honestly, I’m getting a little tired of sweets, so I only ate about 2/3 of it.

Because of the cold and the lack of public transportation, I decided to use the Hop On Hop Off bus for sightseeing. It will take me to all the main tourist areas without having to walk as much. I won’t have nearly as many steps as I’ve had, but it’s better than freezing to death. I got a 48-hour ticket so I can spread the sightseeing over both days I’m here. Maybe that will give me shorter days and less time in the cold.

The closest bus stop to the hotel is back at the square so I’ll explore that more tomorrow and report back. I’ll get to the square earlier in the morning before the market opens, so hopefully, it won’t be as crowded. Maybe I can get pictures without so many people.

Have a good day everyone and I’ll report back tomorrow.

One Day More

Today is my last day in Vienna and I had just a few more stops. I started at the Spanish Riding School where I saw a performance by the famous Lipizzaner horses. Why not the Austrian Riding School? Well…. it was named for the Spanish horses that originated the breed. The horses were brought to Vienna in 1565 and they have been performing here ever since.

The former Royal Box is at the far end of the arena. I was sitting on the opposite side where the horses enter.
The full arena.

We weren’t allowed to take photos or videos of the horses so here’s one I found on Wikipedia. They are beautiful animals.

I didn’t know what to expect from the performance. They started with the younger (4-6 year old) horses whose coats had not yet turned completely white. They took them through their paces of walking and trotting. You could tell they were a little less disciplined as they were sometimes hard to control.

The rest of the show was watching the more experienced horses demonstrate their skill. They actually prance more than walk. It was pretty cool to see. Here’s a video I found on YouTube.

My next stop was the Opera House where I planned to take a tour, but the next available English tour was Sunday afternoon. Since I’m leaving Sunday morning, I won’t be able to tour the inside. I took a picture of the building and kept walking.

Here’s a picture of the inside I found on pixabay.com.

I guess I have a reason to come back to Vienna. I’d love to see the inside.

Next up was my last Viennese church, Karlskirche (Charles Church) built in the Baroque style. In 1713, one year after the last great plague epidemic, Charles VI, Holy Roman Emperor, pledged to build a church for his namesake patron saint, Charles Borromeo, who was revered as a healer for plague sufferers. Construction was completed in 1737.

There was yet another market in front of the church. More on that in a second.

The composer Antonio Vivaldi (famous for the Four Seasons, the most popular of which is Spring) died in Vienna and was buried in this church in 1741, but his tomb has been lost to time. An interesting (or not) side note, actress Hedy Lamarr got married in one of the side chapels when she was 19 years old.

This is the sculpture at the base of the organ loft.
The church from the organ loft. I’m not sure what the deal is with the funky, modern lights hanging from the cupola.
The main altar.
The sculpture above the main altar. It was stunning.
One of the side chapels. I wonder if it’s the one where Hedy got married. Got nothing!

Once outside, I checked out the Christmas Market. I don’t know how many of them there are in Vienna but I think this was the 7th one I visited.

There were the usual food and beverage booths.
I hadn’t seen these before but I thought they were adorable. I think they’re Christmas gnomes.
This is the first organ grinder I saw. Where’s the monkey??

From there I walked to the Stadpark, or City Park. It’s where I went to the concert on Thanksgiving.

The Kursalon is in the background.
There’s a statue of the waltz king, Johann Strauss.

From the park it was a 10-minute walk home. So that was my day, except for the food. Let’s talk about food.

My cousin, who has been to Vienna many times, recommended a great restaurant for Weiner Schnitzel but I couldn’t get anywhere near it without a reservation and they book weeks in advance. A clerk at the hotel gave me an alternative restaurant and that was a no-go as well. But I was determined to have my schnitzel so I found a small bistro near the Opera House. I can’t compare it to the other restaurants, but this was delicious.

The veal was thin and the breading was light and crispy. The glass of prosecco added just the right touch. I was proud of myself for not asking for ketchup for my potatoes.

Even more important than lunch was dessert. Across the street from the Spanish Riding School is a cafe called Demel. My cousin told me this was a great place to get the famous Sacher Torte but the line was pretty long.

This is just a piece of the line; it was much longer.

A few blocks from the Opera House is the Cafe Sacher, originator of the torte.

The line here was half way down the block.

I like sweets as much as the next person but I had no desire to stand in the cold for at least 30 minutes to get a piece of cake. But not being a quitter, I went the Cafe Sluka near the Cathedral to see what they had. This place had also been recommended by the hotel clerk.

It was a very hard decision but I decided on the Sluka, named after the Cafe. It’s the last cake on the left.

I’m having a sandwich in my room for dinner and the cake will be dessert. But I had to try a tiny bite just so I could give you my report. I’ve never had a Sacher Torte to compare it to, but this is pretty darn good. It is totally worth the calories.

I love the chocolate disc on top with the name of the restaurant.

I’ve been in Vienna for 4 1/2 days and have loved every minute. Of course it almost killed me as I’ve walked about 54,000 steps since I got here on Wednesday. That’s about 23 miles!! My poor feet! But I may have walked off one or two of the sweets I had. One can only hope.

Tomorrow, I have an early morning, 4-hour train ride, to Prague. I was there in 1993 but am looking forward to seeing it again. Hope you can join me there.

Schonbrunn and Mozart

Today’s adventure first took me on the UBahn (Metro) about 7 km (5.5 miles) out of the Ringstrasse and the center of the city the Schonbrunn Palace. The Palace was the summer home of the Hapsburg dynasty and has over 1400 rooms. In 1569,Holy Roman Emperor Maximilian II purchased the land and lived in an existing mansion. Work started as early as the mid-17th century until the Palace in its current form was completed in the 1750s.

As you can see it was another wet, dreary day. It actually rained harder today so I borrowed an umbrella from the front desk. There is also another Christmas Market in the open area in front of the Palace.

Since I had purchased a combo ticket yesterday at Hofburg, I was able to skip the long line at the ticket office and go right into the Palace.

The covering on the left side of the chair is original. The one on the right is refurbished and is what the chair would have looked like in the days of the Emperors.
The Emperor’s study. All of these chairs have been refurbished.
Portraits of the last occupants of the Palace… Franz Joseph and Elizabeth (also known as Sisi). For him it was a love match, but historians aren’t sure about how Sisi felt. She was only 16 when she was married. She traveled extensively throughout her life and was assassinated by an Italian anarchist in 1898.
Emperor Franz Joseph died in this bed in 1916.
A sitting area. This room would give me nightmares with the busy floral pattern.
A family dining room.

You haven’t seen any pictures of the ceilings because except for one room, they were very plain. The room with the fancy ceiling is the Grand Salon, where large parties were held.

The Grand Salon
More of the ceiling than my face which always looks so big in selfies.

While crowded, it was nothing like yesterday when people were shoulder to shoulder. I think it was because this Palace is much larger so there was more room to spread out.

After touring the Palace, I went back out into the rain and walked around the market where I found a new sweet treat.

This was dough on sticks covered in sweet stuff. I tried the 3rd from the left which was milk chocolate with Oreo cookie pieces. It was good but I didn’t like it as much as some of the others. The vendor was nice, though.
This market also had a small Ferris wheel as well as a carousel.

Then it was back to the UBahn for the relatively short trip home where I unloaded my bag and headed out to lunch.

My home away from home in Vienna. It’s in a perfect location, just steps from St. Stephen’s Cathedral and the UBahn. I’d stay here again in a heartbeat.

I tried to go to have lunch at an Austrian restaurant where supposedly schnitzel was born but I couldn’t get in without a reservation. Since there are no reservations available until after I leave, I’ll have to find my schnitzel somewhere else. I still have tomorrow. So, I went with my favorite food in world… pizza. This place is just a few blocks from my house and has a pizza menu of over 30 types of pizza, even tuna. Seriously?? Who does that to pizza. Typically, the wider variety of pizzas the better the food. It usually means that they know how to make a good pizza. And they do. It was delicious.

Prosciutto and fungi.

After lunch I walked less than 10 minutes to the Anker Clock. The Anker Insurance Company built the clock in 1914 as part of the expansion of the headquarters. The company is now Helvetia Insurance, and the headquarters is still in this building.

It probably does something special at the top of the hour, but it was only 2:07 so I didn’t want to hang around to find out. It’s only a few minutes from the hotel, though, so I may try to get there at the top of an hour tomorrow.

My last stop of the day was the Mozart House Museum. Mozart lived in 13 different places during his time in Vienna but this house is the only one still standing in its original form. The plaque I saw yesterday was probably the location of one of the flats that no longer exists.

The museum is on 3 floors but his flat was on the 1st floor. Remember they start counting on the ground floor so his flat was one flight up. He lived here from 1784 to 1787. He died in 1891.

While none of the furniture belonged to Mozart, historians have his property list so they put things in the house that are similar as to what’s on the list.

This is the type of table Wolfgang and his wife, Costanza, would have played games on.

The manuscripts are copies of the originals which are in the British Museum.

A page from the Marriage of Figaro which he wrote while living in this flat. He typically wrote 6 pages per day, which is a lot of writing for one day.
The study where he did all his writing.

The walls and ceiling of the flat were plainly decorated except the for room adjacent to the study. Historians think it was the main bedroom.

The ceiling of the bedroom was done in Baroque style 50 years before Mozart lived there.

That was my day. Tomorrow will be cold (upper 30s to low 40s) and cloudy, but no rain is predicted. Even so, I think I may go back to the long silk underwear for extra warmth. I have a few last things to see before I head to Prague on Sunday. Tonight I think I’ll wander to the market by the Cathedral for one last look. Never know what I’ll find.

Have a great night everyone.

Wait, I had already posted this when I realized I forgot to tell you about last night’s concert. In short…. it was amazing! Music was provided by a string quartet plus bass, percussion, piano, flute and clarinet. They played mostly waltzes but a few of Mozart’s works as well. There was no filming during the show but here’s are a couple of pics I was able to take.

The Kursalon is in a park just a short walk from the hotel. We were in the uppermost part of the building where the lights are shining.
Just before the concert. The room seats about 400-450 and it was about 90% filled.

It was a wonderful way to spend the evening. Beautiful music in a beautiful setting. OK, now I’m done for real.