Tomorrow we’ll start week 7 of our Epic Adventure and, luckily, we’re out in the country with less to do. There’s no way we could have kept up with the pace we had in the larger cities and we’re enjoying quieter days. Today we started with a 20-minute drive to Urquhart (pronounced er-cot; I know….why so many letters?) Castle, a ruin which dates from the 13th to 16th centuries.
Urquhart Castle
The Castle was originally held by Clan MacDonald but then, because of their ruffian ways, the King took it away from them and gave it to Clan Grant. Over the next 200 years, the Castle was raided by the powerful MacDonald Clan including the Great Raid of 1545. They ran off with a ton of stuff.
As the sign says, this was part of the MacDonald’s take-away menu. Guard Tower (Keep)Corn KilnI wouldn’t want to be a prisoner in there. The cell was very narrow and dark.
Early in the Jacobite Uprising when King James was first exiled, Clan Grant was on the side of the government and garrisoned the Castle with 200 of its own men but not a lot of weapons. The Jacobites laid siege to the Castle and, while Clan Grant was able to hold out until the end of that part of the war (remember the war went on for over 60 years; this was before Bonnie Prince Charlie). But to prevent the Castle from ever being lost to the Jacobites, Clan Grant blew the place up. In 1715, a bad storm took the rest of the Castle down and what we saw today is what’s left.
Loch Ness from the Castle.
After touring the Castle we had our picnic lunch while we waited for our 1-hour cruise on Loch Ness. As you can see from the pictures, it was a dreary day but not as cold as it looks…probably around 60 degrees. But, it got a lot colder on the boat as we headed into the wind. The cruise went south down the Loch until we reached the Castle, then turned back around.
From the LochScottish countryside from the Loch.On the cruise wearing our brand new tartan scarfs. Peter’s is Clan MacLean of Duart and mine is the dress tartan from Clan Campbell (the Clan that still owns the Cawdor Castle we saw yesterday).
Peter was pretty disappointed not to see Nessie, but he consoled himself by touching the water of the Loch. It was very cold.
After the cruise and the ceremonial touching of the water, we celebrated with delicious gelato then headed home for the afternoon. It was a wonderful day. Tomorrow we head north about 60 minutes to the Dunrobin Castle. It looks beautiful in the pictures so we’re excited to see it.
I didn’t know this until today but the Scottish Highlands has nothing to do with elevation and everything to do with culture, heritage and language. It covers the northern and northwestern regions of Scotland. The famous Clans of Scotland are strictly in the Highlands. In the old days, Highlanders tended to align with the Irish while Lowlanders aligned with the English. As a result, Lowlanders felt the Highlanders to be rather barbaric.
Regardless of the elevation, the drive from Ballater to Inverness was beautiful. Unfortunately, there weren’t places to pull over to take a photo but think about the golf course photos from yesterday’s blog. It looked a lot like that. I did manage to get a couple of close up pics of heather. From a distance it looks rather brown but close up it’s a pretty purple.
The heather has absolutely no scent to it at all. Yesterday we were told that the scent can only be smelled when it rains and the heather gets wet.
Because of the narrow, windy road, not to mention a road closure that necessitated going about 20 minutes out of our way, it took almost two hours to get from the resort to our first stop….Cawdor (pronounced Cowder) Castle. While the oldest part of the Castle is reportedly the Tower House built in 1454, historians have dated some of the stone to be from 1380.
The Tower HouseThe rest of the house was built around the Tower House.
A cool part of this Castle is that it was built around a small living holly tree. Tradition states that a donkey, laden with gold, lay down to rest under this tree, which was then selected as the site of the castle. The remains of the tree can still be seen in the lowest level of the tower.Â
Remains of the holly tree. Testing has shown that the tree died in 1372 which lends credence to the Tower House being built earlier than first thought.
The Castle was originally owned by the Cawdor family but in the 1510 was passed to the Campbell family when a Campbell married the Cawdor heiress. It still belongs to the Campbell family and is home to the Dowager Countess Cawdor, the stepmother to the current Earl.
Drawing RoomAlmost every wall had a beautiful tapestry. There’s way too much pink in this bedroom to suit me. A very pretty corner in the, wait, you guessed it….Yellow Room.This was the original kitchen. And this is the kitchen used by the Dowager Countess of Cawdor. Cynthia….it has your microwave!Looking at the Castle from the side. It looks quite long from this perspective.
After leaving the castle, it was a short 15-minute drive to our next stop – The Culloden (pronounced, Co-LOW-den, accent on second syllable) Battlefield. This is where the last battle of the 1745 Jacobite Uprising was held. Long story short, Bonny Prince Charles (son of exiled Stuart King James II) wanted to get the throne back for his father. His 3rd cousin, Duke of Cumberland the son of the current monarch George II, wanted his dad to keep the throne. The final battle of this 9-month war occurred on 16 April 1746 at Culloden. It lasted all of 40 minutes and it didn’t turn out well for Charlie’s army which lost over 2500 guys during that time. George stayed on the throne.
There’s not much there but an open field but because of the bloody battle that occurred here, it’s considered sacred ground. The red flag in the distance indicates where the Government’s army held the line.
Interesting note, this war wasn’t England against Scotland, it was the Stuarts against the Hanovers for control of the throne. The Government Army had 4 battalions of Scotsmen, while the Jacobites included English recruits.
One of the many markers that indicates a mass grave where the Jacobites were buried. Even though the stone says that this is the grave of the Stewart Clan, everyone was buried together regardless of Clan affiliation.
Our final stop before arriving in Inverness was the Clava Cairns. This is a group of three Bronze Age (about 2000BC) cairns or tombs.
From inside the circle.
We got to Inverness at about 3pm so decided to check out the Cathedral before going to dinner. The Cathedral is also known as the Cathedral Church of St. Andrew and was built in the 1860s, which makes it a new church compared to all the others we’ve seen.
Cathedral Church of St. AndrewHigh altar.Another pulpit with gorgeous carvings.Window in the Cathedral Nave.
We had an early dinner at Zizzi a chain Italian restaurant that we hadn’t tried yet. We had our usual, Margherita pizza for me and Lasagna for Peter. But this time there was a big surprise….lasagna noodles in the lasagna!
As many times as Peter has had lasagna in the last almost 6 weeks, this is the first time he’s had a piece that had noodles in it. I had a taste and it was very yummy.
We’re settled into our new flat and are both pretty tired, so we may make it an early evening. Tomorrow Peter gets to hunt for Nessie at Loch Ness. Wish him luck.
Today was a wonderfully relaxing day beginning with lazing around the townhouse until after 10AM. We had no place special to be so we decided to take our time getting going. The day started cold, only about 39 degrees, but quickly started warming up and the sun started shining. After breakfast I went for a short walk to explore the grounds. This is a beautiful resort.
A little after 10 we decided to head west a few miles to the Royal Lochnagar Distillery for a tour of how they make their single malt Scotch Whiskey, but they were sold out for the entire day. It wasn’t a totally wasted trip because on our way we drove past the gate to Balmoral Castle, the Queen’s residence. As I mentioned yesterday, since she is in the Castle it is closed to tours. The Castle is set back too far to see from the road but it was still cool to see the gates and know she was just down the street.
Royal Lochnagar Distillery has been around since the 1850s when Queen Victoria visited from nearby Balmoral Castle (only about a mile away) and gave it a Royal Warrant, which means it is a place of business that provides services or goods to the Queen, the Duke of Edinburgh and/or the Prince of Wales. It’s a really big deal here.
So, we headed another 20 minutes west to the Braemar (pronounced Bray-mar; with the accent on the last syllable) Golf Club. I tried to get a tee time at a different club but, while they had open times, they didn’t have a buggy for us to use while we played. This Club was very gracious about us dropping by to play 9 holes and only requiring us to rent one set of golf clubs. Most Clubs require each golfer to have his/her own set of clubs but these guys were cool with Peter and I sharing.
Since we live in a desert, we’re used to a course that contains mostly rock and is as flat as a pancake. This course was just the opposite, very hilly and green. In fact, the Braemar Golf Club is the highest 9-hole golf course in Scotland. It was beautiful.
#1 Tee Box.
The River Dee runs through the entire region and empties into the North Sea to the east. It also runs through this golf course.
We crossed the River Dee on the hole #1. Luckily both of our shots made it over the river. If you look closely at the mountain in the distance, you can see the heather on the hillside. There’s no fragrance to it unless it rains. Look at the middle of the photo and you’ll see a stone retention wall. That’s where the tee box was on this hole. We had to hit from down to where I’m standing to take the picture which is where Peter’s ball landed. My shot went a little further, not as far as I thought, but it looked beautiful sailing through the air from the high tee box. Bridge crossing over a little brook that branches off from the River. We lost a couple of balls in there.
After our 9 holes and buying a souvenir golf ball for my collection, we headed into the town of Braemar to find a picnic spot for our lunch. We found a bench in a spot right by the river and their War Memorial.
War Memorial dedicated to those lost in both world wars. A propeller from a WWII plane that was shot down just out of town. The pilot was a local man who died in the crash. They turned the propeller from his plane into a memorial.
The clouds had just rolled in but within 10 minutes they were gone and it was sunny again.
Looking from the other side of the bridge. I think the stone building is someone’s house.
After walking around town for a few minutes, we headed back home. All in all, it was a wonderful day with beautiful weather. Tomorrow, we head out to Inverness, stopping at a few places along the way. But for now, we’re just relaxing in our townhouse doing another load of laundry. Have a great night everyone.
I know this will come as a surprise to everyone but not everything on the internet is true! Can you believe it? Yesterday Google told me Balmoral Castle was open for visitors but it turns out it is not because the Queen is in residence. So we went to a different castle instead.
Crathes Castle is a 16th century castle about 40 minutes from here. It was built by the Burnett family and they held it for almost 400 years before giving it to the Scotland National Trust in 1951. Compared to what we saw yesterday at Glamis Castle, this place was tiny but it was still a nice place to visit.
The Second Kitchen. This was the kitchen used by the servants. The First Kitchen. It looks more modern because it was refurbished when the Castle served as a convalescent home during WWI and WWII. Originally this was a guard room, then used as a store room before being used as a dining room.
The thing this Castle is most known for is the painted ceilings. The next photo is of the High Hall which originally had the entire ceiling painted. Now the paintings are only found in a few of the corners.
Look in the upper left corner to see a bit of the painted ceilings. This painting of the family crest was in one of the corners of the High Hall. There were a couple of rooms with this type of painted ceiling. They were in great shape. The Muse Room. In addition to the painted ceiling, you can see a little bit of the painted wall. They are still finding original (16th century) wall paintings. These have not been refinished so they are in great shape. The long sword against the wall is a two-handed sword. It was too heavy to raise over the head so the soldier used it as a decapitation sword.
In this last picture you can see a little bit of the stone spiral staircase. Peter made it up a couple of stories of regular stairs and one level of the stone stairs but the next couple of levels were way too steep and didn’t have a rail. Because the tour was a one-way “road” we found a steward to take us on a roundabout that eliminated the need to climb higher before going back down. Unfortunately we still had about 60 of these very steep stone stairs to get down. I walked in front of Peter and the steward walked behind him as he very slowly made his way to the ground level. After Friday’s disaster, my stomach was in a knot the entire way and I was very glad to get back to the bottom. I think we’re done with stone stairways.
After seeing the house, we spent a little time in the garden. It was a relatively small area but had some beautiful flowers.
Scotland is much greener than the parts of England and Wales we visited. Because it’s so much further north, it’s cooler and gets more rain. There were quite a few of these very large shaped bushes.
I have no idea what kind of flowers these are but I thought they were pretty.
After leaving the Castle, we headed another 30 minutes east to Aberdeen. It’s the 3rd most populous city in the country after Edinburgh and Glasgow. We had planned to see the Cathedral and a couple of other buildings in the city but I couldn’t find anyplace to park. I followed a couple of parking arrows but either ran into dead ends or construction. We finally gave up and headed to the beach instead.
If you remember, two weeks ago we were crazy hot. Well, that’s not a problem anymore as our temps have dropped by 45 degrees. When we got to the beach it was cloudy, windy and only about 50 degrees. We ate our picnic lunch at the beach and then Peter had his ceremonial touching a new body of water. Instead of wading in, which he usually likes to do, he just touched it. It was way too cold to get wet.
Here’s the video but it’s weird because for some reason, I was holding the phone in portrait view rather than landscape. I have no idea what I was thinking but oh well. It’s less than 30 seconds long, though, so I guess that’s not too bad.
Then we headed home to our townhouse in Ballater. It’s a nice lodge but, unfortunately, has a set of curved stairs. We’re both pretty paranoid so Peter limits his trips up and down. Fortunately, the bathroom is on the ground floor along with the bedroom which is great. The living room, kitchen and large balcony are upstairs.
Dining area with the stairs just behind. You can see the baby gate that can be used if a family has little kids. Living room with balcony overlooking the wooded area. Peter making breakfast.View from our balcony.Enjoying a glass of wine on our balcony after our day trip to Aberdeen. The sun actually came out for a couple of hours late in the afternoon. The swelling in Peter’s face has come down nicely. He’s still pretty banged up but he doesn’t look quite as scary as he did a few days ago.
Tomorrow we’re going to stay a little closer to home to give me a break from driving. We were in the car for 3 hours today and have over 2 hours on Friday when we move up to Inverness. If the weather is good we may play golf or we might visit a distillery. After dinner tonight we went to the beautiful indoor pool and hot tub so we may do that again tomorrow. We’ll see what the day holds. Good night everyone.
We left our lovely flat in St. Andrews and headed north about 20 minutes to Dundee. There we visited the RSS (Royal Research Ship) Discovery. This was the ship that Captain Robert Smith took to his first trip to Antarctica in 1901. It was later used as a cargo ship and in WWI as a supply ship.
Behind the wheel of the RRS Discovery.Officers’ Ward RoomOfficers and scientists had single bunk cabins along the perimeter of the wardroom.This kitchen served 49 officers and men. Since it was the warmest spot on the ship, the sick bay was located next door. One of the exhibitions showing work done in Antarctica.
After spending a couple of hours on the ship and in the museum, we headed another 20 minutes north to Glamis (pronounced Glahms) Castle. It wasn’t until we started reading about it on the posterboards that we realized there was a Royal connection to the Castle. It was the childhood home of Elizabeth Bowes Lyons, more commonly referred to as HRH Queen Mother, the current Queen’s mother. The Queen’s younger sister, Margaret, was born in the Castle. The 19th Earl of Strathmore (Simon Bowes-Lyon) is the Queen’s 2nd cousin twice removed. He’s 36 and single. He has two brothers, both of whom are single. I wonder who’s next in line if none of the boys step up to the plate and have kids?
Glamis CastleBeautiful corner front door and clock tower.
Glamis Castle has been the home of the Lyons family since the 14th century but it started as a hunting lodge in the mid 11th century.
The lower part of the Castle was from the early medieval days. Also from the early day. The rooms upstairs were much more homey. Thought this was a cool picture. This was taken at the Queen’s maternal grandparents 50th wedding anniversary celebration in 1931. Princess Elizabeth holding a stuffed toy is in the front row, 6th from the left. Her mother is in the 2nd row 4th from the left holding baby Margaret. Duke of York (Elizabeth’s father) is back row 5th from left.Drawing RoomDining RoomThe silver boat was given to the 14th Earl and Countess by their kids at the celebration of the 50th wedding anniversary. One of the tapestries from the 16th century.One of the many beautiful stained glass windows. This one was in the Chapel. Speaking of the Chapel, here it is. Billiard room with the grand piano. This magnificent fireplace was in the Billiard Room.Queen Mum’s drawing room. She used this room whenever she visited the Castle. King and Queen’s bedroom with cradle on the side. This is the cradle the current Queen used to sleep in as a baby. How cool is that?!? The Queen Mum never used this bedroom again once her husband (King George VI) died in 1952.Robes worn by the 13th Earl and Countess at the coronation of Edward VII in 1902. These were the same robes worn by the 14th Earl and Countess when their daughter (Queen Mum) was crowned Queen in 1936.
There was a small room dedicated to the Queen Mum, who is the family’s most famous member.
Invitation to the Queen Mum’s 100th birthday service at St. Paul’s Cathedral in 2000. Elizabeth in her later years. She lived to be 102 years old and died just a few months after her daughter, Margaret. Just a few of the over 13,000 acres at the estate. Back of the Castle. We had our picnic lunch at the picnic table on the left.
We were so glad we found this Castle to visit. It was almost by accident as I was just looking for someplace to kill time as we couldn’t check into our next lodging until after 3pm. This was on the way so we thought we’d stop. What a great find!
For the next 3 nights we’re staying at one of the Hilton Grand Vacation resorts in Ballater which was about a 90-minute drive from Glamis Castle. It’s a beautiful resort in a wooded area. It’s very secluded and quiet. We should have a nice few days here. We’ll let you know how it goes.
In spite of what you might think based on the last two posts, there is more to St. Andrews than golf. Of course, there is St. Andrews University, the 3rd oldest university in the UK after Oxford and Cambridge. Like the others, the University of St. Andrews is spread out through a fairly large section of the city. We only walked down one street of the main part of the university but there were some beautiful old buildings.
We had a relaxing morning before heading to the ruins of St. Andrews Cathedral. It was only about a 20-minute walk but, unfortunately, we got caught in a little bit of rain. It didn’t rain hard but we still got a little wet. Of course, since weather said no chance of rain, the umbrellas were still in the flat. The rain only lasted about 10 minutes, though, so it wasn’t too bad.
On our way to the Cathedral we passed the ruins of the Blackfriars Chapel which is all that remains of the Dominican Friary of St. Andrews. It was a Catholic Friary that was destroyed during the Protestant Reformation in the mid-16th century.
Blackfriars ChapelOne of the gates into the Town Center.
The Cathedral of St. Andrews was built in 1158 and was the center of medieval Catholic Church in Scotland. During the Reformation, the Catholic Church was outlawed and the Cathedral fell into disuse. BTW, contrary to what many people think, the Church of Scotland is not Catholic, it’s Presbyterian. Who knew??
Ruins of St. Andrews Cathedral
By the size of the ruins, experts believe that the Cathedral was 390 feet long, which makes it the largest church to have ever been built in Scotland.
There was also an old cemetery. While some of the graves were old, there were also some headstones that were relatively new with dates up to the 1940s.
This is the oldest headstone I could find, at least out of the stones I could read. There were many that looked older but the engraving had worn out. This one is from 1829…almost 200 years ago.
There was a Cathedral museum that had artifacts from the middle ages found during excavation of the site.
This was one of the oldest artifacts they found dating from 761.
Most of the slabs and headstones had skull and crossbones engraved on them.
The inscription on this slab fragment is still very clear. It’s the slab from the grave of Thomas Balfour (don’t think he’s anyone important, except of course, to his family) who died in 1582. The translation of the Latin is: Light of the city, illumination of the people, taking a large part in the court of the council and burgh, and example to the citizens, here I am buried.”This is a model of what the Friars of the time would have looked like.
Part of the Cathedral, St. Rule’s Tower was built in the early 12th century to store the relics of St. Andrew.
St. Rule’s Tower
A short walk from the Cathedral is St. Andrews Castle, another ruin. It was closed today but we were able to get some photos from the street. The Castle was from the late 12th century. It was destroyed and rebuilt many times during the Wars of Scottish Independence of the late 13th/early 14th centuries.
Front of the Castle.The Castle was positioned to protect the town from the sea.
Between the Castle and the Cathedral was a large marshy area.
There were a couple of women swimming this pool. We’re not sure the purpose of the pool but there was strong sulfur smell.
After seeing the ruins, we headed back to the town center, only about another 10-minute walk. After stopping at Superdrug to pick up more gauze pads (I brought quite a few with us but used them all on Peter’s face after he fell) we stopped for ice cream before heading home.
We had lunch at home and enjoyed a lazy afternoon. I napped for about an hour and Peter is still asleep, although I’m thinking about waking him up so he can sleep tonight.
Tomorrow we head north to Ballater where we’ll stay at a Hilton Garden Vacation Resort for the next 3 nights. On our way we have a few castles to visit. Should be fun.
Friday night didn’t go exactly as planned. As we were getting ready to leave for the Royal Edinburgh Tattoo, Peter tripped over a small ledge at the doorway of the flat and face-planted onto the sidewalk. I was in the living room when I heard a crash and when I ran out to see what happened, I saw him sprawled out on the sidewalk with blood pouring down his face. Since there were two small steps leading into the flat, he fell quite a distance. I got him off the ground and into the bathroom trying to stop the bleeding. Luckily, we already had a taxi coming for us and 15 minutes later we were on our way, not to the Edinburgh Castle as planned, but the Royal Infirmary A&E (accident and emergency) department. This is where we sat for the next 8 hours (think 90’s hit tv show ER) until it was our turn to see a doctor. Peter’s face bled for the first 2 of those hours. Luckily I had grabbed the roll of paper towels on our way out the door.
A very long story short, by some miracle Peter managed not to break anything even though I would have bet money his nose was broken. He’s face looks like he went 5 rounds with Rocky Balboa and he has a couple of sprained fingers on his left hand, but other than that he came through unscathed. After we saw the physician at 6:30am (we’d arrived at 7:45pm the night before), I had to leave to get back to the flat to finish packing and clean up the blood before the 8:00 taxi came to take me to get our rental car. Once the taxi came, it swung by the hospital to pick up Peter, who hadn’t yet been discharged when I left the hospital, and we headed to the airport.
Since the Royal Infirmary is a NHS (National Health Service) hospital, we saw the best and worst of socialized medicine. The wait was incredibly long in a lobby with people sitting on the floor and no fewer than 6 people in handcuffs escorted by Edinburgh’s finest (BTW, they don’t carry weapons). It was 2 hours before he was triaged and another 30 minutes after that to get a CT scan. Compare this to when he fell at Home Depot 3-4 months ago. He was in CT within 15 minutes of our arrival.
But on the flip side, all the staff were wonderful. And the most incredible part it didn’t cost us anything. Even though he had a head CT, hand XRAY and an EKG it didn’t cost us a dime.
Notice we got when we arrived at the A&E.
There are private hospitals we could have gone to and it would have been a lot faster but who knows how much that would have cost. Of course, we have travel insurance that would have covered it, but I don’t even want to think about the hoops we would have had to jump through to get that settled, especially since we’re traveling for another 3 months.
Once the drama was over, it sunk in as to how very bad this could have been. From the height he fell and the way he landed on his face, the outcome could have been disastrous. He certainly dodged a bullet…again.
After a successful shopping trip, we went to the St. Andrews Links Clubhouse to get tickets for the 2pm walking tour of the Old Course. The Old Course at St. Andrews Links is the most famous course in the world and recently hosted the 2022 British Open won by Aussie Cameron Smith.
As you can see from the sign, there are 7 courses at St. Andrews. You don’t see the Castle Course on the map because it’s a couple of miles out of town.
The first hole of the Jubilee Course, a par 72 course meant for expert golfers. The start of this course is at the St. Andrews Link Clubhouse.
Alex was our tour guide and told some great stories about the course. We covered 3 holes (1, 17, 18). The beginning of the 1st hole (tee box) is adjacent to the end (green) of the 18th hole so it was easy to get from one to the next.
At the tee box for #1 on the Old Course
Peter only made it about halfway through the tour. He was understandably very tired and was having trouble walking so he found a bench at the 18th green and waited for us to finish the tour.
18th green; it’s one of the largest on a tour course. Some pros 3 putt this one.
In the middle of the 18th hole is the famous stone bridge. It’s official name is Swilcan Bridge called that because it spans the Swilcan Burn (small waterway). Everyone stops playing to take their picture on that bridge. When no golfers are teeing off, tourists take their picture on that bridge. It’s also a popular spots for bridal party pictures.
I stopped to have my picture taken on the stone bridge. Unfortunately Peter didn’t make it this far in the tour.
Here’s a video I found of Tiger Woods, one of the best golfers ever, taking what is probably his last walk across this bridge as a competitor. This was just this July at the British Open and it was his last hole of that tournament.
The 17th hole at the Old Course (also called the Road Hole because of the road that runs along its side) is considered to be one of the hardest holes in golf. The way the pros play the hole is to take the most direct route from the tee box to the green but it’s a blind shot because of the wall of the hotel. That’s the way the pros play the hole. We mere mortals would follow the fairway instead of trying to hit the monster shot past the hotel.
It also has a wicked bunker. At its tallest, the wall is about 6 feet and bunker isn’t very wide which makes getting out very difficult. Its nickname is the The Sands of Nakajima for Japan’s Tommy Nakajima who was tied for the lead in the final round of the 1997 Open before running into the bunker. He ended up with a quintuple bogey (5 over par which unheard of for a pro; even I don’t usually have that bad of a hole) and lost the championship.
Sands of Nakajima. The walls don’t look that high from this angle but if you’re in the bunker it looks like the green monster at Fenway Park. While we were standing here we saw a golfer hit an amazing shot out of the hole.
Here’s an interesting 5-minute video I found about this hole. If you’re not that into golf feel free to skip it. Actually since the rest of this post is all about golf, you might want to stop reading all together. But if you do, you’ll miss the story of my greatest shot ever.
It should come as no surprise that we had an early night as by 9pm we’d been awake for almost 40 hours.
Today (it’s Sunday) we played the Strathyrum Course, which is a par 69 course intended for the non-expert golfer (that’s us). For the non-golfers that means that in order to “play par”, a golfer will take only 69 shots (including putts) to get the ball in the hole for the entire 18 holes. Our course at home is a par 72 and my best ever round was 82, which is 10 over par.
It was a chilly, damp, cloudy morning but we still had a great time. Peter didn’t think he’d be able to play because of his swollen left hand so we only took one set of clubs. But it turns out he had no trouble swinging the club so he played all the shots.
The Eden Clubhouse is the starting point for the Strathtyrum (Strat) course.
Here’s Peter’s first tee shot.
And here’s mine. It was my best drive of the day…169 yards. My longest drive ever is 178 yards. My average drive is probably about 135.
To speed up the game, we played best ball which means we both played from the shot that went the farthest. We played my ball on this one but Peter had a very nice round so we played plenty of his balls as well.
I had my best shot ever today. It was on the 7th hole and we were about 89 yards from the pin. I used my 8 iron and hit a very nice shot which landed on the green and continued to role until it dropped INTO THE HOLE for a birdie (one under par; we shot a 3 when par is 4). Of course I gave a big shout and threw my hands into the air. The pair in front of us, with whom we’d been chatting, asked if I dropped it in. When I said yes, the woman came over and handed me a ball on which she’d written “chipped in at 7 on Strathtyrum; 28 Aug 22.” She wrote it on a ball from her home club here in St. Andrews. It was such a nice gesture and it will be one of my most prized treasures. When we get home it’s going into my golf ball display box.
Peter took this right after the shot as I went up to get my ball. It was the coolest thing ever!
We finished our round with an 81, only 12 over par which is great. Neither one of us on our own would have had the good of a score but playing best ball combines the best shots of both players. We had an incredible time and are so glad we were able to play.
Waiting to tee off on 13 in our brand new Old Course hat/visor.
After turning in the cart and clubs, we had a very nice lunch at the Eden Clubhouse. The Eden Course is one of the par 72 expert courses, and is adjacent to our course. Lunch was delicious (mac and cheese for me; burger for Peter) and was a great way to cap off a very special round of golf.
Eden Clubhouse.Mac and cheese was creamy and very yummy.
After stopping at the Old Course Store for some essential (and very expensive) souvenirs, we headed home. It will probably be another early night as it will take another good night’s sleep to catch up with what we lost Friday night.
Tomorrow we’re going to do a little sightseeing in the town of St. Andrews. It’s supposed to be another cool, cloudy day but as long as it doesn’t rain we’re good. Thanks for following our adventures. Talk soon.
Today started a drizzly, dreary day when we headed out to the waterfront to tour the Royal Yacht Britannia. The yacht was completed in 1953 and traveled more than 1 million nautical miles before being decommissioned in 1997.
Bow of the BritanniaLooking down to the stern of the yacht.
It was a self-guided tour, using hand-held audio guides. We were one of the first ones on the yacht so it wasn’t very crowded at all.
BridgeCaptain Hooper at the helm.Small loungeQueen’s bedroomBack part of Queen’s bedroom.Phillip’s room. This was adjacent to the Queen’s room.Honeymoon suite; Charles had the full bed put in this room in preparation for his and Diana’s 14-day honeymoon cruise through the Mediterranean. Queen’s Office. Note the stuffed corgi on the radio. We saw them all over the ship.Famous photo of Diana on the yacht greeting the boys. This is the exact spot that photo was taken but from a different direction. The bottom right in the photo is where the doorway is so that photo would have been taken from the left side looking towards the doorway.Formal staircase leading the the first floor where the dining room and formal living room are located. The lift at the top of the stairs was put in for the Queen Mother once she was not able to get up and down the stairs anymore. It’s an old-fashioned with the handle to open the doors. She must have had someone open it for her because the door was very difficult to open. The formal dining room could hold up to 52 people. This is where the Queen held formal dinners. Bill and Hilary Clinton participated in a State Dinner here. It takes 3 hours to set the table for 52 guests. Everything on the table is placed with a ruler in a precise location. It was a gorgeous set up. State Drawing Room. The Queen wanted a wood-burning fireplace at the end of the room but changed her mind when she found out that a sailor with a water bucket would be required to stand by the fireplace whenever a fire was lit. This fireplace is electric. Baby grand piano in the living room. Diana used to play this as did Noel Coward.
Moving off the Royal Apartments to the crew quarters.
Bar in the Officer’s Quarter area.Either junior officers’ or Chief Petty Officers’ (CPO) quarters. There were 4 bunks to each room. Officers’ Lounge. Note the wombat on the ceiling fan. The game they played was to put the wombat on the fan then turn the fan on so they could play catch with the wombat. Senior Crew MessCPO Bar. In order to get the Rolls into its onboard garage, they had to take the tires off. The stairway from which the Royal Family and other dignitaries would board.
Here’s a video I found about the decommissioning in 1997. The Queen is clearly emotional. We talked with one of the stewards who told us that the Queen loved the yacht and had many happy memories of it.
A former open area of the ship has been redesigned as a tea room, so of course, we had to check it out.
Enjoying our sparkling rose wine and sweets. Peter had a Victoria Sponge and I had a slice of lemon drizzle cake. Everything was delicious.
The yacht has been used by the Royal family for special occasions like the pre-wedding party for Princess Anne’s daughter Zara and her husband Mike Tindall. It is also the only royal yacht in the world available private hire. Here’s what you get if you book the State Drawing Room: Exclusive use of the whole yacht; up to 100 for drinks receptions; white-gloved butler service; a red carpet entrance and piping aboard via the Royal Brow; drinks served in crystal glassware and entertainment by the official pianist on the original Welmar baby grand piano. How cool would it be to have a wedding here!
After browsing the gift shop, where Peter found his 3rd jigsaw puzzle, we headed back to the bus for an early trip home. There really wasn’t anything else we wanted to see and since we’re going to have a very late night tonight, we decided to have a relaxing afternoon.
Tonight I get to cross off the 2nd of the 3 things on my list of must do while in the UK…the Edinburgh Tattoo. Weather is a bit iffy so our fingers are crossed for no rain. We bought a tartan blanket the other day so we don’t mind cold weather but rain would be miserable. I’ll let you know.
We skipped the Hop On/Hop Off today as our two sightseeing stops took up the entire day so we wouldn’t have had time to see anything else. First up was Palace of Holyroodhouse, the Queen’s residence when she’s in Edinburgh. She was in here in July while waiting for Balmoral to be ready for her.
Palace of HolyroodhouseFountain in the front courtyardAn interior courtyardThe original cornerstone laid in 1671.
We were there when it opened and were able to tour the palace before it got too busy. As in the other Royal Palaces, this one also had a special exhibition. And just like in the other exhibitions, no cameras were allowed. This one highlighted the outfits the Queen wore to all 4 of her jubilee celebrations, including the two from this year.
We saw this dress from her formal jubilee portrait. Recognize the blurred background? It’s the Round Tower at Windsor Castle. The is the only one of the 4 jubilee formal portraits in which she wasn’t wearing a crown. She is actually quite understated but looks great.She wore the green dress on the balcony. This is from the actual exhibition. I found it online.
This was the only of her palaces where we were able to take pictures.
One of the original tapestries. Circle of Swords in one of the stairwaysThe Dining Room Her Majesty uses when she’s in town. Throne Room. The chairs were made for Elizabeth’s grandparents in 1911, King George V and Queen Mary.At the other end of the Throne room is this portrait of Charles II. His father was beheaded during the Reformation and he became King when the monarchy was restored. Presence Chamber. Where the Queen holds receptions and has audiences with high ranking individuals. The King’s Privy ChamberThe only painted ceiling in the Palace is in the King’s BedchamberThe Great HallThe Order of the Thistle Regalia. The Chapel for the Order is in St. Giles Cathedral that we saw yesterday. The Chapel was closed, though, so we didn’t get to see it. The Order of the Thistle is the greatest order of chivalry in Scotland.Knight Grand Cross of the Order of the British Empire; collar, badge, and star (GBE).
Mary Queen of Scots lived in the Palace between 1561-1567. The apartment is accessed via a narrow winding stone staircase. Peter didn’t make the trip so I went up and caught up with him afterward. This apartment was in the oldest part of the Palace.
Mary Queen of Scots Bed Chamber.Outer Chamber with displays of Stewart relics.
The ruins of the Abbey were closed for renovation so we weren’t able to visit.
Front of the AbbeyThe Abbey through the garden trees. Small formal gardens.
After we finished at the Palace and gardens, we headed over to the Queen’s Gallery which was just across the walkway. It was a small art museum containing artwork that has hung in one or the other of the Palaces. A steward told us that they rotate paintings between the Palaces and the gallery.
Portrait of Agatha Bas by Rembrandt van Rijn (known by his first name) painted in 1641. What I love about the Dutch masters (my favorite artists) is how life-like the painting are. You could see every detail of the lace and fan. Close up of the sleeve and fan. The photo doesn’t do it justice; it was absolutely stunning. This one is by Adriaen van Ostade titled The Interior of a Pheasant’s Cottage. The other thing I like about the Dutch Masters is that they frequent paint the lives of “real” people not just the aristocracy. I can’t wait to get to Amsterdam where we’ll go to the Rijksmuseum.
Next up was a bus ride to and EE store to recharge our phone SIM cards, then it was off the the Edinburgh Castle. Along the way we saw a few interesting things.
Scott Monument dedicated to Scottish author Sir Walter Scott. This is the 2nd largest monument to an author in the world. The first is in Havana Cuba. I have no idea what these buildings are but I thought they were beautiful.
It was a long, uphill climb to Edinburgh Castle but Peter made it like a champ. We still had about 90 minutes before our timed tickets to enter the castle, so we stopped in at Cottonwood Restaurant for a lovely lunch.
I had a lovely rib eye steak sandwich with delicious mustard dip. Yes, Cynthia, I did take a bite before I took the picture. But it was just a small bite.
We had just enough time after lunch to chat with a few people about tomorrow’s Tattoo. We found out that if we arrive NLT 8:00pm, we’ll be allowed to enter the grounds early so we don’t have to stand in the queue. Also, if we wait for about 45 minutes after the show ends, the roads will be open again and they will call a taxi for us to get home. We were wondering how that was going to work and I was worried about Peter climbing that monster hill again. I’m very happy with this plan.
This is the end of the grandstands where we’ll be sitting tomorrow. We’re in section 7, row P. So if they start at A, our seats are about 16 rows back. We’ll have a great view of the Castle. This is the direction we’ll be facing. We’re standing on the parade grounds. This is the part of the Castle containing the State Apartments and the Scottish Crown Jewels.
Of course we weren’t able to take photos, but I found this photo online.
Crown used at the coronation of Mary Queen of Scots. Queen Elizabeth II has also used it at the opening of Parliament. Opening of Parliament in 2011. This is the room in which Mary Queen of Scots gave birth to the future King James II. It was a tiny room.
In another part of the Castle grounds we saw St. Margaret’s Chapel. It’s a small chapel built in 12th century.
St. Margaret’s Chapel on the Castle terrace.Small altar.
The windows were very small but they still used stained glass.
The view from the Castle was amazing. The sky was pretty cloudy but it was still pretty.
The final stop at the Castle was the Scottish War Museum…Peter was in heaven!
Ship’s bell from HMS Dartmouth, a Royal Navy Warship lost in a storm off Isle of Mull in 1690.Silver club taken from a military leader in the Indian Uprising of 1857-58.Doublet worn by a soldier during the handover of Hong Kong to China in 1997.
After the museum, we headed back down the hill to where we walked yesterday. We didn’t realize it at the time but the Edinburgh Castle is at one end of the Royal Mile and the Palace of Holyroodhouse is at the other. So, we were at both ends today. We walked quite a bit of it but certainly not the entire length.
We saw another bagpiper, this one in full regalia.
And another street performer.
We made it home around 4pm so it was a full day. We had ham/cheese sandwiches for dinner as we’d had such a big lunch.
Tomorrow we visit the Royal Yacht Britannia so that will be fun. Have a great night everyone and thanks for sharing our adventures.
Ok, so I wasn’t wearing boots, but you know what I mean. I’m FINALLY in Scotland. We settled into our adorable flat after an uneventful one-hour flight from Heathrow and a 25-minute cab ride from the airport. Then we headed to the bus for the 10-minute ride into Old Town Edinburgh. Edinburgh is an incredibly old city with the first recorded inhabitants here in 8500 BC! It has been the capital of Scotland since the 15th century.
A statue of Wellington in front of what I think is the National Museum of Scotland.
This guy was playing outside the museum. We saw a few men walking in the streets dressed in their kilts.
There are several interesting things happening in Edinburgh right now: the Edinburgh Tattoo (we’re going Friday night); the Edinburgh Fringe festival (the world’s largest arts festival) and a refuse workers’ strike. The latter event has left the city strewn with garbage. Luckily it’s not hot or the smell would be horrendous. It’s a 12-day strike that started last week and will be ongoing the entire time we’re here. It’s really sad because this city is absolutely gorgeous, or would be without all the garbage.
This sight is repeated everywhere; there is garbage all over the streets.
After we got off the bus from our flat, we headed to the Royal Mile in the heart of Old Town. I’m not sure if it’s usually a pedestrian only street but it is now because of the Fringe Festival. There were street performers everywhere and people busking in the streets to get people to come to their shows. The street was jammed-packed with people and had a very cool vibe.
I think the name of this church was Tron Kirk. But….
Is it a Church???Or a market???
Well, it used to be a church, now it’s a market. We browsed the stalls for a few minutes; they had some cool stuff, much of it handcrafted.
After a quick bite to eat, we visited St. Giles Cathedral and it was amazing. It was founded in 1124 as a Roman Catholic Church but after the Scottish reformation of the 16th century it became a Presbyterian church.
St. Giles CathedralOne of the many amazing stained glass windows.
John Knox was one of the leaders of the Reformation, and since this was his church, St. Giles is considered to be the “home” of the Presbyterian church.
Statue of John Knox completed in 1906.One of the many side chapels.The carving on this lectern is exquisite. Looking at the Nave from behind the altar.
St. Giles isn’t a particularly big church but it was very beautiful and we’re glad we stopped for a visit.
I can certainly tell I’m not in the desert anymore. My joints are killing me (I can barely move my left shoulder) from the dampness and my hair is beginning to have a Roseanne Rosanna Danna look to it.
The great Gilda Radner as Rosanne Rosanna Danna from the original SNL cast.
I actually had to pull out my Celebrex and flat iron today. Not that either one helped much but, oh well. I guess I’ll just take my anti-inflammatories and live in a pony tail until we get to France. Achy joints and frizzy hair are small prices to pay to be in this amazing city. Even with the garbage it’s a beautiful place. We’re looking forward to tomorrow when we explore even more on the Hop On/Hop Off bus.
We saw this from our bus stop. I’m not sure what it is but hopefully we’ll find out tomorrow.