Last Night on the Continent

Part II of our Epic European Adventure is coming to an end tomorrow when we fly to Tel Aviv. Today was “chore” day. I got a box of stuff shipped home, did two loads of laundry and had my hair coiffed by Zoran, a native of Amsterdam. He did a great job and I look stunning!

The staff at the hotel was great helping me pack up and mail my box. There is no Mailboxes, Etc., here, which is my go-to pack/mail place. So, one of the concierges, Gene, took me to the storeroom where we found a box. Then after it was packed, he taped it up, set up the shipping form and took it with him to drop at the post office on his way home from work. Way above and beyond.

Doubletree at Amsterdam Centraal Station. I would stay here again in a heartbeat should our travels ever bring us back to Amsterdam.

Then it was off to do laundry. Luckily, I got there just in time to grab washers before a crowd came in. That also meant I was first in line for the dryer, so I didn’t have any wait time at all.

So where do you dry your wooden shoes if not in the dryer?

Peter, on the other hand, didn’t leave the hotel. It was another cold, windy day but there was no rain, so for that I was grateful. I made it home between chores to have lunch with him in the Sky Lounge at the hotel.

Beautiful lunch view. The sun was out for about 30 minutes.

Peter stayed with his usual burger, while I had a Caeser Salad.

This sucker was gigantic. He had to eat the meat separately from the rest of the sandwich.
This was big enough for 2 people. I ate about half.

On my way to my hair appointment, I passed a few pretty sights.

The house in the foreground was built in 1695 which means it was built during the Golden Age of Dutch painters. Kind of weird to think about that. It’s now a cafe.
There were only a couple of tables, but this one had some very nice artwork.

I planned to stop at the Rembrandt House Museum but, unfortunately, it closed on 1 Nov for the next 5 months for renovations. But I did get a picture of the outside.

It’s the center house and the entrance to the museum is the building on the left. Rembrandt’s house was built in 1606; he lived here from 1693-1658.

By the time I finished at the salon, it was starting to get dark, so the lights really looked pretty.

It’s beginning to look a lot like Christmas!

When I got home, I picked Peter up in the suite and we headed to the Executive Lounge for a few snacks. We have peanut butter and jelly sandwiches for dinner, so we thought a few bar treats and free beer were in order. Actually, we ate enough free food in the lounge that neither one of us is hungry, so we’ll have our sandwiches on the plane tomorrow.

I can’t believe this part of our holiday is over but I’m looking forward to seeing Israel. It’s a new country for both of us so it will be fun to discover it together. As much as I was originally uncertain about a fully guided tour, I’m now looking forward to it. During the last 15 weeks, I’ve driven over 8,000 miles in 10 countries (England, Scotland, Wales, France, Spain, Italy, Switzerland, Germany, Belgium and the Netherlands) and spent hours dealing with the logistics of finding places to live. While I enjoy planning our trips and I love driving vacations, I’m exhausted, so I’m actually excited about being told where to go, what to see and when to be back. The only decision I will need to make is what to have for lunch. Oddly enough, I’m totally okay with that. Who would have thought?

Here is the itinerary for the next 9 days. Tomorrow, our flight is due in around 5pm (4 1/2-hour flight plus we lose one hour) and we have a car picking us up to take us to the hotel. We no longer need Covid testing so we don’t have to worry about a 24-hour quarantine. The tour doesn’t officially start until dinner on Thursday, so we have all day to explore Tel Aviv. On Friday, we put ourselves in the hands of our tour guide for the next 8 days. This is a small group tour, with no more than 24 people, so that will be very nice.

Here’s where our tour will take us.

The last 7 1/2 weeks on the continent has been amazing. We saw some beautiful things, had terrific (mostly) weather, met some incredible people, saw a phenomenal concert, and ate way too many pastries and other not so good for us food. But most importantly, we did all of these things together which is what this is all about.

We’re so glad you traveled with us for this part of our adventure and hope you join us for the final 23 days.

19th Century Art

Yes, the bad weather has certainly caught up with us. But being the troopers we are, we don’t let it stop us from getting out and about. Our main stop today was the Van Gogh Museum which is across the street from the Rijksmuseum we visited yesterday.

We got there before it opened at 9:00 and even though our tickets were for 9:30, we were the first ones in the door.

While most people headed straight for the main museum and the Van Gogh exhibit, we first went to the special exhibit on Gustav Klimt. Klimt was an Austrian painter heavily influenced by Van Gogh, Matisse and Monet. His most famous painting is The Kiss.

We didn’t see this as it’s in Austria, so I got the pic off pixabay.

Here are some of the works we did see.

I didn’t get a picture of the explanation for this one, and I don’t remember the name…sorry.

You can certainly see the Monet influence in this painting.

Morning by the Pond

And Van Gogh in this one.

A Morning by the Pond

This was his muse Emilie Floge.

And, finally, this was the painting he was working on when he died in 1918. He had a stroke, then developed pneumonia. He was only 55 years old.

You can see the pencil marks where he’s drawn the image but didn’t have time to paint.

After an enjoyable 30 minutes in the virtually empty Klimt exhibit, we headed to the much more crowded main gallery to see the works of Van Gogh. I was amazed by how much work he did in his 37 years. He was not well known during his lifetime and most of his works were owned by family. The famous Starry Night series of paintings are located in the Musee d’Orsay in Paris, so we saw those in 2018. But we saw many of his other masterpieces today. There were at least 18 self-portraits. He did so many because he couldn’t afford to pay models.

Self-Portrait with Grey Felt Hat (Paris, 1887)
Self-Portrait with Pipe and Straw Hat (Paris, 1887)

I thought this was cool. It is his actual palette.

Van Gogh couldn’t afford to buy frames for his paintings, so he made them himself. The frame around this painting is the last remaining frame made by Van Gogh.

Quinces, Pears, Lemons and Grapes (1887)

Van Gogh wanted to be the most famous painter of sunflowers in the world. I think he succeeded.

Sunflowers (1888). He used only 3 tints of yellow for the flowers.
The Bedroom (1888). If you look closely, you can see his straw hat hanging from the right side of the headboard.

This bedroom was in this house in Arles, France.

The Yellow House (1888). The bedroom was on the 2nd floor with the window with one shutter.

Van Gogh and Paul Gauguin were buddies. Gauguin stayed with Vincent for 2 months in this house. He painted this painting of Van Gogh painting sunflowers.

Vincent van Gogh Painting Sunflowers (Gauguin, 1888)

It was during this time that, after an argument with Gauguin, Vincent cut off his left ear with a razor. He was found several days later covered in blood. After that he spent a year in the mental hospital in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. Despite his unstable mental health, he was very productive, painting about 150 paintings that, including…

Apple Blossom. We saw this painting, but the crowd was 5 deep, so we didn’t get close enough to get a picture. This one is from pixabay.

And my favorite “flower” painting….

Irises

This painting was Van Gogh’s final painting. It is also unfinished, but I can’t really see what still needs to be done.

Tree Roots (1890). He painted this the morning he shot himself in the chest. He died a few days later.

We took so many more photos, but I think I’ve included his most important/famous pieces. The paintings we saw today were so different from the ones we saw yesterday in the Rijksmuseum. With the Dutch Masters you can see every strand of hair on the subject’s head, every fold in the tablecloth and every crack in the loaf of bread. In fact, the bread looks like you could reach in a grab a bite. It is just the opposite with the Impressionists. Their paintings aren’t exactly abstract, but often the lines are indistinct and blurred. While I enjoyed seeing their work today, I like the Dutch Masters better.

The weather was still okay when we left the museum, so we headed back to the tram to do a walk by of Anne Frank’s house. We didn’t get to it the last time we were here and, even though we can’t do the stairs, Peter still wanted to see it.

Statue of Anne around the corner from the house.

Unfortunately, the house is undergoing renovations, so this is all he saw.

The more modern building next to it is the museum and the entrance to the house. When I was here in 1993, all you did was walk in the front door of the house, buy your ticket and start the tour. It’s very different now, probably because it’s the #1 tourist attraction in Amsterdam.

Just as we left the house to head towards the tram, it started raining. Not pouring but enough to get very wet. So, like yesterday, we ducked into the closest restaurant, a sandwich and pancake house.

Oh, foodies, you’ve been so patient the last couple of days (or have you…I wouldn’t have blamed you if you checked out halfway through yesterday’s post). Lunch wasn’t terribly exciting, but it was good. Peter had Wienerschnitzel.

He said it was very good.

And I have French Onion Soup and a Toastie. I was so cold that I just wanted something warm. The soup was delicious but the Toastie was just okay. Not as good as the one I had in France.

Ham, cheese and tomato toastie.

I had a little order envy when the women next to us got their lunch, Dutch pancakes, because they really looked good. I think pancakes, I think thick and heavy. But they were more like crepes, which would have been lovely.

Luckily, by the time we finished lunch, the rain had stopped so we very quickly made our way to the tram for the short ride back to the central station. Like most main stations in Europe, this one is also a beautiful building.

Just as we were getting to the hotel, the rain started again. We managed to get inside before getting wet and are now, once again, snug in our room. I think we may head to the Executive Lounge for happy hour tonight. We missed yesterday but I think a free glass of prosecco is in order.

Tomorrow is a chore day. There are no laundry facilities at the hotel, but there is a launderette a short walk away. I also have to find a place to pack/mail a small box home. We haven’t bought much in the last 6 weeks but it’s enough to make the suitcase rather bulky. Besides, Peter bought his 5th jigsaw puzzle (The Nightwatch) today and there’s no way I get that in the suitcase. And finally, tomorrow afternoon is hair cut/color day for me…yeah! I’m not sure if Peter is even going to leave the hotel. He said he’ll wait for me in the Executive Lounge which is open all day. At least I’ll know where he is while I’m running errands and getting gorgeous.

Dreary, but Fun, Day in Amsterdam

We’ve been on this Epic Adventure for exactly 15 weeks today and this was the first truly dreary weather day we’ve had. We’ve seen clouds, drizzle, crazy hot and very cold, but until today we hadn’t had a miserable day. We had a few short bursts of no rain where we were able to get from the hotel to the tram and from the tram to the museum, but by the time we finished our day, it was raining steadily, and we got pretty wet before making it back to our Bridge Suite at the Doubletree. But now we’re snug in our sweats and the fluffy socks we bought in France, munching on a cannoli, trying to warm up.

Waiting for the tram to bring us home. The holiday decorations are starting to come out. Can’t believe it’s that time of year again.

We started our day at the amazing Rijksmuseum, the national museum dedicated to Dutch arts and history. This is my 4th time to visit, and I never get tired of it.

The museum has been in this building since 1885.

We started in the Gallery of Honor where the most famous works of art are found. As I mentioned in the post from Delft, Johannes Vermeer is my favorite artist. Well, here is my favorite of his paintings. The detail in works by the Dutch Masters is simply amazing. You can see every seed in each roll and each crack in the loaf of bread. It all looks fresh enough to eat. I have a print of this at home.

The Milkmaid by Johannes Vermeer (1660)

This is one of Peter’s favorites. You can see the teeny, tiny skates on each of the skaters. The figures are very small, but the smallest details (e.g., eyes) are clear. It’s really incredible. We have a print of this one as well.

Winter Landscape with Skaters by Hendrick Avercamp (1608)
The Threatened Swan by Jan Asselijn (1650)

Here’s a famous self-portrait by Rembrandt.

Self-portrait as the Apostle Paul by Rembrandt van Rijn. (1661)

Be honest, how many of you knew Rembrandt’s last name? How many of you thought Rembrandt was his last name?

And, of course, the star of the show….

Nightwatch by Rembrandt van Rijn (1642). His use of light is just incredible.

There was also a large collection of 19th century art.

Battle of Waterloo by Jan Willem Pieneman (1824)

And one by Van Gogh.

Self Portrait by Vincent Van Gogh (1887)

But there is more in this museum than paintings. We saw tapestries…

Drawings…

You could see the tiny details on every face…incredible.

Furniture…

Inlaid wood cabinet.

Dollhouses…

Carvings…

Carving of Saint Agnes made of boxwood (1680)

Glassware…

Beer anyone?? This large stein is from 1594.

Pottery…

And stained glass windows…

We spent over 2 hours at the museum but could have stayed for much longer without seeing everything. After a while, everything starts to blur together so two hours is usually our max in museums.

While on our way to find lunch, the rain started again so we ducked into the first restaurant we found, Cafe Hans en Grietje, where we had very good burgers. The Marc Chagall Gallery was across the street. We’d had enough of art for one day, though, so we didn’t visit.

By the time we left the restaurant, the rain had let up again, so we sped as fast as we could with me pushing a wheelchair, to the Heineken Experience. It was less than 10 minutes away and, luckily, we made it before the rain started again. The place was crazy crowded with at least an hour wait to start the tour. But one of the staff let us skip the line so we got in right away.

The tour is in the original brewery and the self-guided tour told the story of how the brand started. In 1864, Gerard Adriaan Heineken, bought a brewery and, without any experience in making beer, turned the company into the giant it is today. The current head of the company is Gerard’s great granddaughter.

The letter Gerard wrote his mom telling her he was starting a new company.

Here’s what the original Heineken bottle looked like.

1870

And here’s one from the year I was born.

Early 20th century delivery trucks
The ‘A’ Yeast is what gives the beer its distinct flavor. It was specially developed for Heineken.
The original style of brewing vats.

At one point in the tour, we “became” beer as it went through the brewing process. In this video we’re being bottled. It was pretty cool.

The end of the tour included an interactive piece which was a lot of fun. We couldn’t get on the bikes to ride through Amsterdam, but we did have our picture taken in one of the vats.

While the tour was self-guided, we needed someone to help us with lifts because there were a zillion stairs, so it was almost like we had a private tour. It was a lot of fun. BTW. You have the opportunity to drink up to 3 beers during the tour. We didn’t.

Unfortunately, by the time we left, it was steadily raining. We thought about trying to catch a cab but there was no place to stand out of the rain to get one. We were right around the corner from the tram, so we did that instead. It was during the walk home from the central station that we got pretty wet. I had an umbrella for Peter but if he put it up, I couldn’t see where I was going so, I guess we should have kept the ponchos we sent home in one of the boxes. Oh well.

Tomorrow, we’re headed back to the same area to the Van Gogh Museum. We’ve had those tickets for about a month as they tend to sell out. It’s supposed to be another rainy day but hopefully it won’t be as bad as today. Fingers crossed.

Haarlem

We dropped the car off at Schiphol without incident after putting 831 miles on the car. We didn’t have terribly long drives on this part of the trip because the Netherlands and Belgium are pretty small countries when compared to France. But we did do a bit of crisscrossing because we had to go back to Antwerp on Sunday for the concert. This last Thursday was the longest drive we had, about 3 1/2 hours. Nothing like the 10 hours in 2 days we did in France.

We started at Schiphol, went to Doorn to see Kaiser Wilhelm’s house, then landed in Rotterdam for 4 nights, never moving the car. Then it was around Antwerp and Brussels to get to Waterloo, finally getting to Ghent for 4 nights. We drove to Bruges for our day trip.
Then last Sunday we went from Ghent back to Antwerp for the concert. On our way from Antwerp to Bastogne, we went through Liege because we didn’t want to drive around Brussels. It was a little out of the way, but we had horrible traffic around Brussels on our way to Waterloo, so we didn’t want to deal with that again. We spent 2 nights in Saint-Hubert, going back to Bastogne for the second day to do more sightseeing. Then it was off to Aachen for just one night and finally Leiden (via the Castle) yesterday. And, finally, it was back to Schiphol today.

After dropping the car, we could have taken the train from the airport to the Central Station for less than 15 euro, but we would have had to schlep about 15 minutes on both ends with the 24-inch suitcase, two backpacks, and a wheelchair. So, we bit the bullet and took a taxi (75 euro), and we’ll do it again on Wednesday when we head to the airport for our flight to Israel.

When we got to the Doubletree, they gave us a wonderful upgrade to a suite.

Our living room.
Our bedroom. Odd that it’s only a queen bed but we can live with that.
The view from our suite

Since we’re here for 4 nights, it’s great to have a little more room to spread out.

After getting settled in, we headed to the train station for a short ride to the nearby town of Haarlem. I’ve heard so many good things about it that we wanted to check it out. It was a cold and cloudy day, so we were a bit bundled up but still enjoyed our relatively short visit.

A cute courtyard we found on our way to the town center.
Building from 1624 is tucked between two relatively new buildings.

When we arrived at the Grote Markt (historic town center), we found that they have a weekly Saturday market. Desiree, you would have loved it. They sold everything from leather goods, to flowers, to food, to rugs. It was great.

And no, there really was no scent, even from the seafood. There was a tiny fish smell but not what you would expect given the amount of seafood they were selling.
The cannoli came from Catania Sicily, which is where I used to live. Of course, we had to buy a few but we haven’t tried them yet. We’re saving them for later.

After wandering around the market, we stopped for lunch. It should come as no surprise that we had Italian. Cynthia commented on an earlier post that she was surprised about the amount of Italian food there is everywhere. We discovered a long time ago that in virtually every city in Europe has two things…. a Cathedral and at least one, if not more, Italian restaurants. It’s the most popular type of food in the U.S. and it wouldn’t surprise me if it as the same here.

Peter had a pizza, but I was afraid it couldn’t match the incredible pizza I had in Antwerp, so I had ravioli instead.

I had a tiny taste. It was good but nothing like the one in Antwerp.
Yes, I know it looks terrible, but it was quite good. You had to love mushrooms, though. It was a bit salty but other than that I enjoyed it.

There are two main churches in Haarlem. We didn’t care enough to walk 20 minutes to get to the main cathedral, but we did pop into the Grote of St.-Bavokerk, which was right on the square.

The opposite side.

Construction began in 1370 and concluded in 1520. The church is most known for its incredible organ.

A close up of the gorgeous carving near the base of the organ.
There weren’t a lot of windows, but this one was my favorite.

Then it was a 15-minute walk back to the Haarlem station. When we got there, we went into the older side of the station that doesn’t have a lift. Unfortunately, we didn’t realize it until after we scanned our tickets and got to the 2 flights of stairs leading up to the platform. But once again, with the help of two kind strangers, we made it to the top. One woman helped Peter up the stairs while another helped me get the wheelchair to the top.

Now we’re snuggled in our suite wearing the fluffy robes and warm slippers we found in the cabinet. We broke into the gingerbread stocking we bought in Aachen.

Isn’t it adorable. I hated to ruin it by eating it, but we can’t take it to Israel so…
It is very yummy. Sometimes the ginger flavor is overwhelming but not this time. It’s perfect.

Well, it’s just after 5pm and we’re off to the Executive Lounge to check out happy hour. We only have a couple of small peanut butter and jelly sandwiches for dinner so hopefully we can find something good to nibble on. Have a great Saturday night everyone.

Castle De Haar

Today was another easy day. After breakfast in Aachen, we headed northeast to Utrecht where we visited the De Haar Castle. Well, we didn’t visit the castle as much as we visited the gardens and took pictures of the castle from the outside. There were way too many spiral staircases for us to maneuver, so we spent about 40 minutes exploring the expansive garden.

The original castle on this site dates to 1391 but was destroyed and rebuilt several times before this version was constructed in the late 19th century. It is the largest castle in the Netherlands.

Yes, it was cold enough for hats, gloves and scarves. It was low 40s but cloudy and damp.
The Roman Garden was the only one with flowers in bloom.
These two parts of the castle are connected by a covered walkway.
There was also a separate chapel.

The grounds were beautiful.

Here’s the castle from the back garden.

Visiting the castle only took us a few minutes out of the way, so we’re glad we stopped to see it. But we were getting very cold and hungry, so it was back to car for the 50-minute drive to the Hilton Garden Inn in Leiden, about 20 minutes from Schiphol Airport. There’s nothing to do here but it’s a place to lay our heads down tonight. The good news, though, is that they have a restaurant, so we stayed here for lunch. It was pasta for both of us.

Peter had Penne Chicken
I had Spaghetti Bolognese. Yes, that’s Peter’s usual order but we decided to take a walk on the wild side and mix things up. This was the first time I had pasta that I didn’t make myself. Both were very good.

Tomorrow, we take the car back to the airport and head to Amsterdam. As nice as it was to have the car to get around, I’m glad to get rid of it. It will be nice to “park” ourselves for a while. After the 5 days in Amsterdam, we have 9 days in Israel, 9 days in Greece and 5 in Turkey before heading home 4 weeks from today. We’ve been moving around quite a bit and we’re both getting tired so not having to keep loading/unloading the car will be great. Talk to you later. Love from us.

Aachen, Germany

It is back to Germany for one very short day but first, here was dessert from last night.

I’m sure you can guess who had the eclair. Mine was a light chocolate sponge cake with a layer of chocolate mousse and a layer of raspberry mouse. OMG! It was so good!

We had a very short day as it was cold and, once we saw the Cathedral and walked a little in old town, there was nothing else we wanted to see. It was worth the trip back, though, as the Cathedral is beautiful.

On our way into town, we went past one of the two remaining 13th century gates. Luckily, I was first at the stop light, so I was able to grab a quick pic.

Marching Gate

We lucked into a disabled parking spot just outside the pedestrian street, so it was a short walk to the Cathedral. In addition to scaffolding all over the building, they are preparing for the upcoming Christmas Market so there were trucks everywhere. As a result, the pictures don’t show the Cathedral very well. But here’s a pic I took the last time we visited.

Aachen Cathedral, April 2018

The outside makes the Cathedral look much bigger than it is on the inside. Of course, I’m sure there are hidden rooms we didn’t see, but the inside looks quite small. The Cathedral is one of the oldest in Europe having been ordered by Emperor Charlemagne in 796. He was buried there in 813.

They were cleaning the Barbarossa chandelier, so the entire area was roped off.

We were able to walk around the side to get a little closer to the main altar.

The gold box in the foreground is the Marienschrein (Shrine of Mary) that holds the swaddling cloth and loin cloth of Jesus, a dress of Mary and the decapitation cloth of John the Baptist.

Marienschrein, containing more than 1,000 gemstones, was consecrated in 1239.

The gold box in the background, closer to the stained-glass windows, is the Karlsschrein or Shrine of Charlemagne. This is where the remains of Emperor Charlemagne have been held since 1215. We couldn’t get close enough to take a good picture so here’s one I found online.

Karlsschrein

I couldn’t find any information about this, but it was hanging in the middle of the front part of the Cathedral.

And, of course, the incredible stained glass windows.

You can see the Karlsschrein in the background a little better in this shot.

The ceiling is gorgeous.

The entire Cathedral ceiling were these mosaic patterns.

The Cathedral also hold the throne of Charlemagne.

Throne of Charlamagne

There was a special pulpit, called the Ambion of Henry II. It was built 1002 and 1014 and was quite beautiful.

Henry II Ambion

We have no idea where they were hiding the organ as we didn’t see it anywhere, but here’s what it looks like.

I guess we didn’t look up in the right direction.

There were also several side chapels, only two of which we saw.

The All Saints Chapel was very spartan, but still beautiful.
The Chapel of St. Nicholas was gorgeous.

After we were finished inside, we took a walk through the pedestrian street around the Cathedral. The shops are already gearing up for the holidays. Apparently, Aachen has one of the best Christmas Markets in Europe. It opens on 11/18 so we missed it by a couple of weeks.

We had to pop into this candy shop to compare German chocolate to Belgian. While good, the German variety is not as creamy as the Belgian. We bought a little bag, though, just so that we had enough to really make a good comparison. I also couldn’t resist a gingerbread Christmas stocking.

We haven’t tried this yet. I think we’ll save it for Amsterdam.

Adjacent to the candy shop was a bread store that also had pastries and sandwiches. We decided we didn’t want a big lunch, so we picked up a couple of sandwiches to take back to the hotel. But we decided to have a little dessert before lunch.

The one on the left was a light orange flavor and the one on the right was strawberry. Both were scrumptious.

I’m not sure what this building was, but the very bottom was the Rattskeller Restaurant.

And this one is for you Desiree. It wasn’t a big market, but it was nice.

We actually only stayed in the city center for about 90 minutes before heading back to the car. It was only in the mid 40s, cloudy and windy so we were getting cold. We’re staying at the Hampton Inn about 15 minutes from the center of town. We stayed here in 2018 so we knew it was a nice hotel. We got here super early, but they allowed us to check in, so we’ve been snug in our room for the afternoon. We’ll have sandwiches again for dinner as we’re both a little tired of eating out. I bought rolls and we have our usual ham and cheese I got yesterday from the market.

Tomorrow, we head back into the Netherlands for the last day with the car. We were going to go to Nuenen to see Van Gogh’s house, but it’s temporarily closed so we’ll head straight to Leiden where we’ll spend the night. It’s just under 3 hours away, so depending on what time we leave here, we may make a side trip to The Hague, which only adds about 20 minutes to the trip. But, as of right now it looks like rain all day, so we’ll see.

Battle of the Bulge

Before we move on to Bastogne, here are a couple of final pics from Antwerp. The Central Station was built in 1836 and is a big tourist attraction. Our hotel was right across the street.

The building is beautiful.
The inside is just as nice.

This post is for all of the history buffs out there as the last two days has been all about WWII. But foodies, there may be a pic or two in here for you.

Very quickly, the Battle of the Bulge took place between 16 Dec 44 and 25 Jan 45 and was the last big German offensive push. They were trying to split the Allied lines and cut off the port of Antwerp. The Allies were surrounded and on December 22nd the German command sent a message to General McAuliffe stating that the Allies either surrender or be annihilated. McAuliffe famously replied, “Nuts”. The good guys won in the end. OK, that’s it in a nutshell. If you want to know more, talk with Peter…he knows everything!!

Our only stop in Bastogne yesterday (Tuesday) was the Bastogne War Museum. We’d visited in 2018 but wanted to see it again. It tells the story of the battle through the eyes of 4 people who were involved – an American soldier, a German soldier, a 19-year-old Belgian teacher and a 14-year-old Belgian boy. Of course, there were the usual dioramas, weapons, tanks, etc., but it was the stories I enjoyed the most.

Fleeing families
Bastogne after the battle.

There were 3 movies but there weren’t just on flat screen. The 2nd one showed the movie on a screen behind a set that looked like the Ardennes Forest (the battle is also called the Ardennes Offensive).

There is no sound as that was coming through our audio guides.

Another one was set in a cafe where all 4 “characters” meet. Fourteen-year-old Emile’s parents sent him to his uncle’s cafe in Bastogne for safety since the cafe had a basement and was safer during a bombardment. The teacher was already there, and the American soldier was escorting the German soldier (who had been captured) to headquarters when they stopped at the cafe during a bombardment. This is a true story. All four of them survived the war.

The movie showed behind the cafe set.

There was also a new exhibit called Generations 45. It followed the story of an American and German veteran after the war. The German, who moved from the Berlin’s Soviet sector to the American sector just before the wall went up in 1961, was there when the wall came down in 1989. Here are the pieces of the wall he took as a souvenir.

It was a very enjoyable 2 hour visit in the museum and is a must-see for history buffs. Then it was on to our Airbnb flat in Saint Hubert, about 30 minutes from Bastogne. But it was the closest accommodation we could find that didn’t cost $250/night. It’s an easy drive through the Ardennes Forest so we don’t mind being a little far out.

OK foodies, here’s one for you.

Don’t they look yummy.

Today we went back to Bastogne to visit the 101st Airborne Museum. The 101st (The Screaming Eagles) was one of the groups that participated in the battle. The museum is in a 3-story brick building on a residential street and was filled with memorabilia donated by veterans and/or their families.

What I loved most about this museum was the stories about the veterans. There were cases of memorabilia with a story about the veteran who donated the items.

This case were items from John Paul Zimmer. The story on the left was about the D-Ration chocolate bars they got in their ration kits.

The other part I enjoyed was seeing pictures of people and then a recreation as a diorama. I thought it was very cool.

The real photo
Recreated in a diorama.

I’m also fascinated when I see pictures of people wearing the clothes or using the items I’m looking at.

General George Patton with some guy.
The exact coat and boats Patton wore in the photo. Ok so Peter isn’t the only history geek in the family, but he’s a much bigger geek than I am.

You might wonder what Patton was doing there as he wasn’t in the airborne. Well, his 4th armored division broke through the German lines to “rescue” the airborne division but if you read anything written by someone from the 101st, they will say they didn’t need to be rescued.

The 101st Airborne jumped into Normandy on D-Day. My favorite TV show of all time, Band of Brothers, was about one of the companies of the 101st. The story followed them through their campaigns in the last year of the war, including Battle of the Bulge (episodes 6 & 7).

Of course, there were plenty of other dioramas, but I thought they were more interesting than some of the others we’ve seen.

This one shows the civilians celebrating the victory with a few soldiers.
A battlefield aid station.

There were more displays in the basement, but the stairs were too steep for Peter to climb, so I went down to check it out. The most interesting thing was a recreation of what it was like during the bombardment of Bastogne during the battle. The video is just over 5 minutes long, which is much longer than I usually post, but I wanted Peter to be able to see the entire thing and I don’t have any way to edit the video. So, grab your popcorn.

Even though I knew the ceiling wasn’t going to fall on my head, it was actually a bit scary listening to the bombs and rifle fire. I can’t image what it must have been like for the people who experienced it for real.

After a very pleasant 90 minutes in the museum, we headed out for a stroll in town. On our way we stopped at Place General Patton to see his monument.

There was also one dedicated to General McAuliffe in a square named after him.

His square also had a tank. I would have thought they’d have put the tank with Patton, but what do I know.

Outside of the museums, there isn’t much to see in Bastogne, but it was a sunny day (but cold, only in the 40s), so we enjoyed our walk down main street.

At the end of the street, we found St. Peter’s Church and the Treves Gate. The church is from the 16th century and was badly damaged in the battle. Fortunately, they were able to restore it.

Church of Saint-Pierre
While there were some traditional windows, these looked very modern and were very beautiful.

Because of the restoration, everything looked new, but the artwork is an exact replica of what was originally in the church.

The ceiling was gorgeous.

The Treves Gate was built in the 14th century and is the last remaining piece of the city’s medieval history.

Then it was time to head home as I had yet another load of laundry to do. Unfortunately, our flat doesn’t have a washer so I had to go to the grocery store to do laundry. Seriously, I did.

The laundry was immediately inside the door of the Carrefour grocery store. The sign on the wall is advertising washers for 4 euro and dryers for 1 euro. I don’t know how old those signs are, but I only did one load and it cost 11.00 euros (5 for washer; 6 for dryer).

On the walk back from the laundry, I grabbed a pic of the Abbey of Saint-Hubert (now a basilica).

It was cold and I didn’t feel like walking down to get a closer look.

Tonight is our last night in Belgium as tomorrow we head to Aachen Germany for one night. The only reason we’re going is to see the tomb of Charlemagne in the Aachen Cathedral. We visited Aachen in 2018, but by the time we got to town the Cathedral was closed. It’s sort of on our way back to the Netherlands and we had the extra day so we figured it would be a cool place to stop. Fair warning, be prepared for Cathedral pictures in tomorrow’s post.

Oh, before I go, here’s something else for the foodies (assuming they didn’t check out ages ago).

Sorry about the glare, it was the best I could do. Anyone have a straw?

Antwerp Magic Continues

Antwerp is turning into my favorite city ever. This morning we met a couple at the hotel who mentioned that they were sitting behind us last night at the concert. Their son plays guitar with Dana’s band, so they were in town to see the show. Seriously, how odd is it that someone at the same hotel was not only at the concert but sat right behind us. I asked them what Dana said about Arizona. As I thought, she was going through the various areas in Belgium and then said, “I understand there are people here from Arizona. Where are you?” When I mentioned that I was afraid she wouldn’t get the flowers, they said she always gets and appreciates the things people send to her at her shows. Before I only loved her voice, now I think she’s an amazing person as well.

That started the day off with a smile on our faces as we headed out into the dreary weather to explore more of Antwerp. We took the metro to the Cathedral then walked about 10 minutes to the river where we found a giant Ferris wheel.

Neither one of us is crazy about heights so it should come as no surprise that we didn’t take a ride. Just down the street we saw Het Steen, a medieval fortress built in the early 13th century.

Then we headed back the way we came to visit Grote Markt in the heart of the old town center.

Since it’s been 2 whole days since we had chocolate, we stopped at a shop to buy a few pieces.

No, this isn’t what we bought. It’s the window display.

We had been told that the oldest street in Antwerp was near the Grote Markt, but we couldn’t find it. It just so happened that when I asked at the chocolate shop, it was directly across the street. It’s called Vlaeykensgang and the small street is from the 15th and 16th centuries. It used to be filled with shoemaker shops but now is home to a couple of exclusive restaurants and a gallery.

Saw this on top of a high ledge in the street.

It was an adorable, hidden gem and were so glad we found it.

It had been over a week since we’d had Italian, so we stopped at a place close to the old street. You can’t throw a rock without hitting an Italian restaurant, but I’m thrilled we found this one. It was as if we were transported to Rome, that’s how good the food was.

Peter had mixed dish of lasagna, ravioli and cannelloni.
The best pizza I’ve tasted since 2019 when we were in Italy.

After lunch we headed back to the hotel. It was a pretty long walk, but Peter had the wheelchair, so I was able to walk off some of the pizza while pushing him through the shopping area.

As you may know, Antwerp is the diamond capital of the world. Approximately 84% of the world’s uncut diamonds come through this 1 square mile of Antwerp. That area just happens to be outside our door. So, of course, we went window shopping. I saw an anniversary band that I loved and thought it would be fun to try it on. It was gorgeous but not even close to anything we could afford, which was fine because I had no intention of buying anything. This was just for fun.

The owner brought out a couple of others and within minutes Peter bought me a ring. Seriously, it happened so fast I didn’t even get a chance to talk him out of it, and yes, I really would have tried to talk him out of it. We are spending a fortune on this trip, and I don’t need more jewelry. But OMG it is gorgeous. It has 9 baguette stones surrounded by round diamonds. And it fit perfectly so I guess it was fate. After wiping up tears and giving several kisses to my honey, we walked/rolled out the door with my new sparkler on my hand. Wow!

Just as I was finishing this post, Peter showed me Dana Winner’s Facebook page, because of course he’s “friends” with her, and look what was on it.

All I can see is my fat lip.

The link you see in the post is a link to our travel blog. How the hell did this happen??? I don’t know enough about social media to even guess unless she has someone whose job it is to scour social media for her name. So, we’re now on her Facebook page. I’m not sure what that means for our travel blog as it is meant to be a private blog for family and friends. But I keep track of people who sign up for it, deleting uninvited people, so I guess we’ll be okay.

Our two days in Antwerp has been incredible for so many reasons but tomorrow we’re off to southern Belgium and Bastogne, sight of one of the most famous battles of WWII…the Battle of the Bulge.

The Most Amazing Evening EVER!

It’s almost 1am and I’ve been awake since 2:30 this morning but I’m keyed up and can’t sleep. So, I thought I would tell you about our evening. But first, I have to tell you about the note I put into Dana’s flowers. It was just a couple of lines telling her how Peter was a big fan and that we’d rearranged our vacation so we could be in Antwerp for the concert. I put Peter’s name and love from Arizona U.S.A. That was it. This is important for later.

When we got into the venue, I looked for someone to talk with about the flowers. I finally found someone who looked official and asked how we could get them to Dana. He didn’t have a clue, but he called someone on his 2-way and after about 5 minutes he told me to leave the flowers with him and the production manager would pick them up and give them to her. I left them and went back to our seats. I was skeptical that she was going to get them as he didn’t seem too sure about what to do but I figured I had done all I could.

Our seats were a little further back than we expected given that we were in the 18th row, but the rows were spread about 4 feet apart and there was a very wide aisle about 5 rows ahead of us. So actually, we were about 30 rows back from a typical U.S. concert hall. But they were still great seats, dead center of the arena.

You can see how wide apart the rows are. Why wasn’t I facing the other way to hide my fat lip??

We assumed that Il Divo was an opening act, and that Dana would come out after the intermission. Wrong. Il Divo were guest performers and came out near the end of the show for 4 songs. It was short but they were wonderful!

Time to Say Goodbye

A woman sitting next to us said that they’re going to be in Amsterdam next Sunday evening (we get there on Saturday) so who knows, we may catch their full show then.

As we expected, virtually all of Dana’s conversation, and most songs, were in Dutch, but it really didn’t matter. Her voice is so amazing and the songs so beautiful, it made no difference that we didn’t understand the words.

About 15 minutes into the concert, the lights came up and she started calling out what we guessed were areas of the country and whoever was from that area would give a cheer. Finally in English she said, “and from everywhere else in the world.” There were only a handful of us, but we gave our best cheer.

And then the most amazing thing happened. She said something in Dutch followed by “Arizona”. I was startled but yelled out and waved my arms. Peter tried to wave his arms but since he can’t lift them above his waist, it didn’t work out too well. But she saw me and said, “was it you”. We yelled yes. And then she said, “I have a question. Did you come for Il Divo, or did you come for me?” This is when I thought to grab the camera and video the last couple of seconds. It’s very shaky as I was in a hurry, but I think you’ll be able to make it out.

So, not only did she get the flowers, but she also read the note, and mentioned it from the stage! It was the most incredible thing. I wish you could have seen Peter’s face; it was pure joy and I’m in tears remembering it. After that, the next 2 1/2 hours was magic. She has incredible energy and as Peter always says, she looks like she’s having so much fun.

Here are just a few of the many, many videos we took. Enjoy.

She also does this one in English on several YouTube videos. It’s a beautiful song that she usually sings with children.
This is the beginning of an Abba Medley.
She did this with Il Divo and about 200 kids who sang with her a couple of times. It was right before her encore.

And, of course, One Moment in Time.

I never get tired of hearing her sing this.

We’ve been on our epic adventure for over 3 months and have done and seen some incredible things, but we will remember tonight as a highlight. It was worth the 11 months of waiting, the cost of the tickets, a fat lip and a chipped tooth.

Ok, now it’s almost 2:00 and I really need to sleep. Not sure how that’s going to happen though. I’m still on cloud nine. Love to all.

Peter’s Big Day

Well, it’s finally here. The day Peter has been waiting for almost a year…. the Dana Winner concert. A little backstory. Peter discovered Dana (pronounced Donna) about 18 months ago. She is a Belgian pop singer and is amazing. Her first language is Dutch, but she often sings in English. Here is the first video he saw.

The video that started it all.

After this he was hooked and watched every video he could find. We’ve downloaded 3 of her albums and I think he even joined her fan club. Seriously, he’s a total fan geek. Yesterday we bought her a large bouquet of flowers to take to the show. I’m not sure how we’re going to get them to her, but we’ll figure something out. Maybe security can take them for us. In fact, it was the flowers that was the indirect cause of my fall. I didn’t want to carry them around all afternoon so that’s why I went back to the flat, which is why I needed to get to back to the tram, which is why I passed the scaffolding, which is why I tripped over the leg of the scaffolding. Right, so this is all Peter’s fault…I can work with that. No seriously, I fell because I wasn’t watching where I was walking.

Peter and his flowers.

Anyway, our epic European adventure was supposed to take place from June to mid-September but when he found out Dana was having a concert in Antwerp in October, the whole trip got turned upside down so we could attend. We’ve had tickets (the 18th row) for almost a year and the big day has finally arrived.

In addition to Dana, Il Divo is also performing. This group was formed by Simon Cowell and included a Swiss, German, Brit and an American. They’ve been together since 2003 and have a huge world-wide following. The German, Carlos Marin, died from Covid in December. This video has the other 3 founding members singing Hallelujah as a tribute to Carlos. It’s really quite moving. I almost started crying when I saw that they left his “spot” in the foursome open.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ldfgPMCnaKM

In this clip, they’re speaking in Italian, but they all speak English. I have no idea what language they’ll use tonight. So, between that and Dana possibly singing/speaking in Dutch, I’m not sure if we’re going to understand a word that is said/sung but who cares. Music crosses all language barriers so it’s going to be a great time regardless. I’ll let you know tomorrow as we’ll get home too late to post again tonight.

But first we had to get to Antwerp. We had the car packed up and were ready to go a little after 9am. It was a short, 45-minute drive and we went straight to the Hampton Inn at the central train station. There is no parking, but I managed to find a temp spot so I could take the backpacks into the hotel and find out where to take the car. After parking (about a 5-minute walk from the hotel) we headed to Peter Paul Ruben’s house. Ruben was a 16th-17th century Baroque painter and is from Antwerp. He built the 3-story townhouse in 1609 and lived there for the rest of his life.

The place was crazy crowded, at least 20 people in each room and these rooms were quite small.

Front of the townhouse
Main bedroom

Rubens loved Italy and spent a lot of time in Rome. He owned hundreds of Roman statues and built this semi-circular room for his collection.

The picture on the far wall is a painting he did of his second wife. She was 16 and he was 53. Eeew!

All of the artwork in the house were originals, either his or other painters. Here are just a few of the many, many paintings we saw.

This one was by Rubens.
I don’t remember who painted this one, but I thought it was cool.
This one was also pretty interesting.

There was also a small garden with a pretty courtyard.

He really was into the Roman statues.
The back of the house from the garden.

After the house, we began the hunt for lunch. There was a bistro just down the street, but there were no seats, so we kept walking. We finally found a square with tons of restaurants, but Peter was getting tired, so we stopped into the first one we came to – a Hard Rock Cafe.

The bruising is actually worse on the inside of my lip. You can also see the chip in my tooth. I’ve already messaged the dentist about needing an appointment when we get home. I can’t bite down on that tooth at all, so I’m pretty much just chewing on the other side.

After a delicious lunch of grilled chicken sandwich (Peter) and pulled pork sandwich (me), it was off to the other side of the square where we visited the Our Lady of Antwerp cathedral. The main reason we wanted to visit was to see the 4 altar pieces that Ruben did for the church.

The Cathedral with a statue of Rubens in the center of the square.

The church was consecrated in 1521 and has a spire that is over 400 feet tall.

Once again, the pulpit was magnificent.
One of the side altars.
One of the non-Ruben works of art.
This work of Ruben is behind the main altar.
The dome was relatively small but gorgeous.

After the church we took the Metro back to the central station which is across the street from our hotel. Now we’re just resting before getting ready for our big night on the town. The concert is at the sports palace, just a few metro stops so it should be an easy commute. Getting back could be another story as everyone tries to leave at once, but we don’t walk very fast so maybe by the time we get to the Metro everyone else will be gone. We can only hope.